Fifty years ago Chris Bonington led the first expedition to climb the South West Face of Everest, a phenomenal achievement. A year later he published his account of the ascent, also a phenomenal achievement, given the time scale. I'm in awe of the skill and commitment needed on the mountain - I've done just enough low level snow and ice climbing to have at least a bit of a grasp of what's involved - and as a writer myself impressed at Bonington's ability to produce such a good book so quickly.
I first read Everest The Hard Way in 1977. I still have the copy I bought - it's pictured above - but I hadn't looked at it in many years. Back then I hadn't done any mountaineering at all and was still a fairly inexperienced backpacker. The world of Himalayan climbing seemed incredible. I marvelled at the dangers, effort, and sheer determination involved. I couldn't imagine how anyone did this.
Reading the anniversary edition of the book - a fine hardback - I'm also impressed at the complex organisation needed for the expedition to succeed, in itself a phenomenal achievement by Chris Bonington. So much planning, so many decisions, so much to keep track of, so much to co-ordinate. The section on this in the appendices is just mind-blowing! Detailed formulas for loads and rest rates, charts for movement on the mountain, and more. An incredible amount of work.
Back in 1977 I read the book as a gripping adventure story. I suspect the organisational side went over my head - I wanted to know about the actual climbing, the excitement, the danger, the camping, the near misses, the disasters. And that is still the heart of the book and thrillingly told. Now though I can admire the writing skill as well, the way Bonington tells the story, the way he weaves in excerpts from the diaries and writings of members of the team, including criticism of himself at times, and makes the book about them all.
This is a mountaineering classic about one of the most significant ascents in climbing history. I'm glad I've read it again and I certainly recommend it to anyone interested in excellent outdoor literature.
Hi Chris,
ReplyDeleteI was 13 in 1977 and my Dad bought the book and gave it to me to read. It was incredible, not just for the achievement of the climb itself, but for the huge logistics. Dad took me to a talk and slideshow about the expedition by Chris and it was fascinating. The logistics made a great impression on me, as Dad took me on camping trips and, with Mum, took me and my sister on long walks over the Lakeland fells, as they had done since we could first walk. What we had to think about was miniscule compared to Everest expeditions. I'm 61 now, and although my parents have now passed on, I still get out on the Lakeland fells and sometimes the Scottish peaks every week, sometimes more than once. Me and my wife are spending Christmas week in Aviemore. Can't wait. A fantastic book and I also really enjoy your blogs. Keep it up Chris and here's looking forward to winter. Have a good one, best wishes, Ian.
Great post Ian!
ReplyDeleteMy Dad had this book and kindly gave it to me. One of my favourites. The photo of Haston summiting at dusk is sublime...