Clouds & mist & sun & snow: a glorious day in the Cairngorms

A distant Creag Meagaidh rises above a sea of clouds

Some days the weather is perfect and grey skies, bitter winds and dull light are forgotten. Such was yesterday. A day of deep blue skies and vast views. At least high in the Cairngorms. To the south and west clouds filled the glens. Down there the day would be dismal and damp.

A summit just pokes above the cloud in Strathspey

On the tops the air was calm, cold and bright. The only sound the crunching of my boots in the thin crisp snow. The hills felt vast as they stretched out to fade away in distant horizons.

On Cnap Coire na Spreidhe

As I headed up Cairn Gorm I watched a long cloud forming over Meall a'Bhuachaille and Creagan Gorm. I wandered over for a better look. This was a day for meandering, for going where my curiosity rather than following a set route. This cloud was unusual, just sitting along the summits. I've not seen this here before. Someone on one of those lower hills would think the day misty yet only a short way in any direction they'd have clear views.

Cloud on Meall a'Bhuachaille

On Cairn Gorm several groups were leaving the summit as I arrived. They missed the best of the light. The summit to myself, I wandered round, absorbing the views and the beauty. The moon, almost full, rose into the sky above a line of darkening pink.

Cairn Gorm Weather Station

The sun sank into the clouds. Beyond the now shadowed Cairngorm Plateau Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochan Uaine rose into an orange sky.

Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochan Uaine

I lingered until the final colour began to fade, reluctant to leave. A final flourish of searingly bright red far out to the west and it was time to head down into the moonlit night.

Last light

Out Into The White World

The snow fell, the wind dropped, the air stilled. A frozen afternoon, the snow crisp underfoot. No sound other than my boots crunching through the whiteness. Pause and the absolute silence was vast and shocking. The world is rarely so quiet.

Trees dark against the pale ground. Only a few had caught the snow from the wind. In the distance the hills, almost insubstantial, faded into the sky.

The land felt empty. There were no birds in the sky. Nothing moved bar a few rabbits scurrying into their burrows. Fox tracks cut in a straight purposeful line across the fields and vanished into the trees.

The sky was grey and flat, streaked with thin clouds. As I made my way back home as the day faded into night the light deepened into a cold blue. A waxing moon shone through the thin hazy clouds.

Winter has come.

The snow's back!

After a mild and snowless first half of January the snow returned late this afternoon. Light rain turned to thin sleet, then wet snow, then big flakes, then, as the temperature dropped below zero, steady fine dry cold snow. By 10pm there was about an inch lying here at 300 metres in Strathspey. I'm due to go on an igloo building trip this weekend. It looked like being cancelled. Maybe it'll take place after all. We'll decide tomorrow evening.

Yesterday I went for a stroll by the River Spey, which was fuller than I've seen it for many weeks. With no snow visible on the Cromdale Hills and the temperature well above freezing - no need for hat or gloves - it felt almost spring like. It will be different tomorrow.

Photo notes: the top photo was taken on my Samsung Galaxy S7 smartphone at 4.35 pm  - it was getting dark and snowing heavily, not ideal conditions for this camera. Settings: 1/13 second at F1.7. ISO 800.

The River Spey images were taken on the Sony a6000 with Sony E 55-210 lens at 55mm.. Settings for upper photo: 1/160 second at F8, ISO 400. Settings for lower photo: 1/50 second at F8, ISO 400.

What I've Been Reading Online Recently

Hazy January Cairngorms

This is the first in an occasional series covering pieces I've read online that I think worth sharing. I've pinched the idea from Alex Roddie who's been running a regular 'What i've been reading this week' for some time now. I share pieces I like on social media already but it's occurred to me that posts there are often ephemeral. They should be a bit longer lasting here.

OUTDOORS

Warm baths and soggy underpants, and getting #AdventureSmart 

Entertaining and informative piece by Judy Whiteside about mountain rescue and the changes since the 1940s.

SUL Sub-3lb Winter Backpacking List 

A clever piece designed to make backpackers think by Paul Mags.

I Know Where I'm Going - but does anyone else? 

Following break-ins at the Glen Feshie car park Cameron McNeish looks at protecting your car and how to let people know where you are.

Unbalancing Act: Reflections on Thru-hiking the Pacific Crest Trail

A realistic look at long-distance hiking and it's aftermath by thru-hiker Kara Kieffer. It doesn't have to be life-changing or bring revelations to be worthwhile.

Skills: Gaelic for Hillwalkers

Kevin Woods looks at how understanding the Gaelic names of hills and topographical features can enhance the enjoyment of hillwalking.

Britain's 44-mile walk where you won't cross a road - what's involved? 

Robin Wallace considers the recent claim that you can walk a 44-mile straight line across the Cairngorms without crossing a road.


BOOKS & MAPS

The Spellbinding Power of Reading Nature's "Lost" Words Aloud

An in-depth review of Robert Macfarlane and Jackie Morris's The Lost Words by Lila MacClellan looking at the amazing effect this wonderful book has had.

Off the chart: the big comeback of paper maps 

Stanfords travel bookshop can print any map you want and says paper maps are on the way back says Kevin Rushby.

Jonathan Franzen's Controversial Stance on Climate Action

Interview with the novelist by Serena Renner about his views on environmental issues and his new non-fiction book The End of the End of the Earth. 


CONSERVATION 

The New Wild 

Anna Tsing writes about 'invasive' species and how we react to them.

When the ice melts: the catastrophe of vanishing glaciers

Mountaineer Dahr Jamail on the disastrous changes climate change is having on the world's mountains.





 



 

Water for winter camps when there's no snow

As we all know, when the temperature drops below zero water freezes. And that can be a problem for winter camping if there's no snow to melt. Fill your water bottles at night and find them blocks of ice in the morning. Insulate them from the ground, wrap them in spare clothing, turn them upside down so any water can still be accessed. These all work to some extent. But they can all be awkward, inconvenient, and inefficient. Much easier to just let the water freeze and then melt the ice.

I do this in two ways. Firstly I fill my pots at night and then put them on the stove in the morning. I don't carry big pots though so this doesn't give me that much water. So I also carry flexible water carriers with wide openings. If these freeze overnight I just break up the ice by bashing them with a boot and then shake it out. This doesn't work well with rigid bottles! I have two flexible Platypus containers I use for this, the latest being the Water Tank.

Of course you can carry an insulated flask and fill this at night. I often do. But again it doesn't hold that much water. Or you can leave your tent and go and collect water from a nearby source if there is one. On a freezing stormy morning this isn't very appealing though. I much prefer to have hot drinks and breakfast without leaving my sleeping bag. Plenty of ice is the way to do that.

The picture was taken in the morning at my camp on the Moine Mhor in the Cairngorms earlier this month and described here.

Tarptent Moment DW Review for The Great Outdoors

I've just posted my review of the 2019 version of the Tarptent Moment DW in my column on the TGO website.

https://www.tgomagazine.co.uk/gear-editors-column/chriss-column-tarptent-moment-dw-tent/

Outdoor & Nature Books Review 2018

There were many excellent outdoor and nature books published last year, many of which I haven't got round to reading yet (and may never do so - there's only so much time). Here are brief reviews of the ones I have read (or started to read) and enjoyed most, in no particular order. Some were printed books, some e-books.

There's Always The Hills by Cameron McNeish

My long-time friend Cameron McNeish's 'autobiography of sorts' is entertaining and packed with stories of the hills and outdoors people. 

In The Land of White Death by Valerian Albanov

I have to admit I'd never heard of this book before. It was given to me as a birthday present by my partner after she was enthralled by a play based on it she saw at the Edinburgh Fringe. It's the gripping story of a disastrous and tragic Russian arctic expedition in the early twentieth century told by one of the only two survivors.

The Lynx And Us by David Hetherington

This is an important and beautiful book. The author makes an excellent case for reintroducing lynx into the Scottish Highlands. The book is full of lovely and dramatic photographs of lynx by Laurent Geslin.

Bothy Tales by John D.Burns

Entertaining stories of bothies and adventures by the author of The Last Hillwalker.  Full of wry humour and over-the-top escapades with a touch of gentle sadness. I read it in camps on the GR5 and felt it an ideal book to have with me.

High and Low by Keith Foskett

Long distance hiker Keith Foskett's latest book tells how he dealt with depression whilte walking the length of Scotland. It's an honest account of a challenging time for the author. It's not a depressing read though. There is much humour and the overall feel is life-affirming and positive. I wrote the foreword and was very pleased to do so. 

The Nature of Autumn & The Nature of Winter by Jim Crumley

Two books by a great nature writer with his usual mix of personal recollection and detailed descriptions. Makes the seasons come alive.

On the Trail with Boots McFarland by Geolyn Carvin

Witty and amusing cartoons about long-distance hiking by a long-distance hiker. Every walker should recognise themselves somewhere!.

Trekking the GR5 Trail Through the French Alps by Paddy Dillon

My guide on the GR5. I probably read most of it several times. Informative and very useful.

Scaling the Heights: Measuring Scotland's Mountains by The Munro Society

Full of fascinating details about the Munros and measuring mountains. 

Northwest by Alex Nail

A sumptuous book packed with magnificent photographs this can be looked through again and again. The words are good too, with some interesting adventures in the NW Highlands described. I wrote the Introduction and I feel honoured to have done so.

Mrs Moreau's Warbler: How Birds Got Their Names by Stephen Moss

The fascinating and intriguing story of why birds have the names they do. Some are really surprising! A mix of natural history, history, etymology and literature all tied together entertainingly and informatively.

Snow The Biography by Giles Whittel

Everything you could want to know about snow: the science, the avalanches, the stories. Informative and enjoyable.

Our Place: Can We Save Britain's Wildlife Before It Is Too Late?  by Mark Cocker

A passionate and important book that covers the story of our conservation bodies and laws, what has gone wrong (and for nature to be in the state it is much has), and what can and should be done. Sobering, anguished and serious it should make anyone think about the future of wildlife in Britain.

The Secret Life of the Mountain Hare by Andy Howard

The author, a wildlife photographer, says that mountain hares became an 'engulfing passion' and it shows in his wonderful pictures. Every aspect of hares lives is shown and described. Lovely!

Scotland A Rewilding Journey by Susan Wright and Peter Cairns

Another important book packed with tremendouts photographs Scotland A Rewilding Journey covers every aspect of rewilding and argues well why it is essential that this takes place. 

A History of Scotland's Landscapes by Fiona Watson

This was a Christmas present and I've only dipped into it so far, but enough to know that I'm going to enjoy reading it and also learn a great deal. I'm looking forward to it.