A Heatwave Walk In A Doomed Landscape

Lochan na h-Earba

Hillwalking in a heatwave is hard work, especially carrying camping gear. The forecast was for a few days of clear skies and light winds when I planned the trip. After became a forecast for a heatwave I decided to go anyway and modify my plans if necessary.

I’d been planning to visit the Ardverikie area south of Loch Laggan since March when the Scottish Government granted permission (see here) for a huge pumped storage scheme that will drastically change this wild area. I wanted to see it again before it became a different and diminished place.

Foxgloves & the Abhainn Ghuibinn

I set off late, hoping to avoid the hottest part of the day. I don’t know if I did but it was certainly very hot, the air still and heavy. The land looked lush and green. Lines of red and white foxgloves edged the track. As long as I kept my place slow it was lovely walking.

Soon I reached Lochan na h-Earba under the walls of craggy Binnein Shuas, only 747 metres high but a rugged hill with a classic rock climb, Ardverikie Wall, on its cliffs. At the southern end of the lochan is a golden sandy beach, a lovely spot. A few tents dotted the grass at the sand’s edge. It is a grand place for wild camping.

Lochan na h-Earba

Lochan na h-Earba is a double lochan as the same name applies to the next lochan in this narrow glen between steep hills with just a half kilometre of flat land, Am Magh, between them. When the hydro comes this will disappear under the waters of a reservoir as the twin lochans become one with dams at both ends. That will be a sad day.

I considered joining the campers by the beach but there were still several hours of daylight left so I pushed on up a steepening stony path into Coire Pitridh and then to the Bealach Leamhain at almost 750 metres. Here I pitched my tent on rough ground that was probably boggy in wet weather. This night it was dry enough.

Loch a' Bhealaich Leamhain evening

Just beyond my camp I could look down on Loch a’ Bhealaich Leamhain, a jewel set between the steep rugged walls of two Munros, Beinn a’ Clachair and Geal Charn. This will be the upper loch of the hydro scheme, with a large dam at one end. Low sunlight lit the grasses on the bealach. The waters of the loch shimmered in the breeze. The sky and the hillsides glowed. A wild peaceful place. For now.

Bealach camp

I settled into my tent. The light wind kept off the midges for a while but died away as it grew dark. A few bites and I had the doors zipped shut, even though it was quite stuffy inside. The air did cool in the darkness though, dropping to 12°C, and I was able to sleep for several hours, until the rising sun woke me with brightness and a rapidly rising temperature.

Loch a; Bhealaich Leamhain morning

I wandered over to look at the loch again. The water was a deeper blue, undisturbed except for one little whisper of wind. The grasses glowing in the sunshine again but the slopes either side were shadowed. It felt an enchanted place.

By the time I set off the heat was building rapidly. A rough path took me up to the col between Creag Pitridh and Geal Charn. I had intended on climbing the former, another Munro, as it’s less than 100 metres above the col and just half a kilometre away before heading up Geal Charn but I was already feeling the effects of the heat and not quite enough sleep. A rest seemed much more attractive, especially as I found a shaded spot behind a boulder. It’s not often conditions are right for a nap outside during a summer’s day high in the Scottish hills, midges or the weather usually moving me on quickly. I was glad to take advantage of the opportunity.

Creag Pitridh

The rest lasted two hours, at least half of which I spent asleep. I felt rested and relaxed. So relaxed I could have stayed there all day. I wanted to climb Geal Charn though, or rather I wanted to descend Geal Charn. On the map I’d noticed a path marked on the north side of the hill that eventually curved down to Am Magh. I’d found no mention of it in any guidebook. Did it still exist? I wanted to find out. The situation looked excellent as it traversed across steep slopes high on side of remote Coire an Iubhair Mor.

Geal Charn

A steep stony path led up to the extensive plateau-like Geal Charn, a path not marked on the map, though it is well-used and described in every guidebook. As the path levels out the distinctive summit cone appears, its sides strewn with the pale stones that give the hill its name – Geal Charn meaning white hill.  On some maps it also has the alternative name Mullach Coire an Iubhair, the top of the corrie of the yew tree. I could see no trees in the corrie below nor did it seem likely that yew trees ever grew this high.  There’s a big well-built cairn and a circular trig point on the top. I rested here a while, enjoying the extensive view. In the sun my thermometer read 42°C. There was a breeze though, which took the edge off the heat.

Summit cairn and trig point

A short descent led to the steep edge of Coire an Iubhair Mor. I could see the path not far below and follow its snaking line across the corrie wall. It looked even better than on the map, and better still when walked. It’s well-constructed and wider than a walker’s path, made, I think, for ponies. In places it’s fading away, in other crumbling and narrow, but still easy to follow. The only tracks I saw were those of deer. Not far below a little lochan lay in the heart of the corrie.

Marvellous & neglected

I thought this path lovely and easily the best way up Geal Charn, which is an underrated hill. But I could see why the path was neglected. It’s on the wrong side of the hill for combining Geal Charn with Creag Pitridh and Beinn a ‘Clachair, the round of these three Munros being a standard route and recommended in every guidebook.

Looking back up the path to the rim of Coire an Iubhair Mor

Leaving the corrie rim the path ran down to the Allt a’ Mhaigh (Moy Burn). As I descended the breeze dropped away and the air became stifling. The clegs (horseflies) came out and I wasted precious energy slapping them away. Despite this and adding insect repellent to the sunscreen and sweat I was still bitten painfully a few times, smears of blood decorating my arms and legs.

Loch na h-Earba & Binnein Shios

Lower down the path faded away into boggy ground. I could see the north-easterly Lochan na h-Earba and craggy Binnein Shios, a companion to Binnein Shuas. Soon I was down on Am Magh and the estate track that runs along this long glen.

Am Magh & Lochan na h-Earba

Am Magh is another lovely peaceful place. There are a few trees here and many more on the flanks of the hills either side of the north-easterly lochan. If I’d been out for a second night I’d have camped here. As it was I tramped the track alongside the other lochan back to the golden beach and on to my car and the main road. The heat didn’t relent and I stopped regularly for water and a rest. I probably drank five times as much as usual on a day out. On the way home I heard that the temperature reached a record 32.2°C in Aviemore, which wasn’t far away.

Binnein Shuas & Loch na h-Earba

I’m glad I visited this area again. It’s how I shall remember it. If the hydro is constructed I doubt I’ll return.

There was a campaign against the hydro scheme. Parkswatch Scotland ran several excellent piece such as Free market landscape destruction by Nick Kempe and Shafting Ardverikie – the fate awaiting its lochs, corries, bens and fine old hill paths by David Jarmin. The last, which I only read after my walk, describes the Coire an Iubhair path.  The John Muir Trust made a formal objection too but all the campaigning was to no avail. A beautiful area of wild land is to be lost.

A Look At The August Issue Of The Great Outdoors

The August issue of TGO is all about islands. The magazine opens with a splendid double-page photo of  Mangersta on the Isle of Lewis by Eilidh Cameron. Hanna Lindon looks at eight British ones, from Rum to the Scilly Isles. Helen Iles revisits Ynys Enlli  (Bardsey Island) for seal watching and star shooting. Alastair  MacDonald showcases some of Scotland's west coast islands after spending two years visiting them. Jim Perrin's Mountain Portrait is Ben More on Mull. And John Fleetwood describes going coast to coast on Corsica on the wonderful GR20, which I walked twenty years ago.

In shorter pieces Nadia Shaikh looks at hedgerows, Francesca Donovan reviews the Wander Wild festival  in Killarney National Park in Ireland, Eben Muse argues that reservoirs should be open for swimming, and Juls Stobel answers a query about the Mountain Bothies Association.. 

In the Gear Pages Lucy Wallace and Alex Roddie review four backpacking rucksacks each, Lara Dunn  reviews four budget solo tents, Lucy Wallace and James Roddie review two budget sleeping bags each, Steph Wetherell reviews the Outdoor Research Vigor Half Zip fleece, and Fiona Russell reviews the Rab Veil XP 20L Waterproof Pack.

In the Skills section Alex and Hannah Roddie go on a Peak District-based course to learn about overcoming a fear of heights. The skills learnt fit in with the Wild Walks this issue as this consists of seven scrambles. Alex Roddie tackles An Groban in the North-West Highlands while James Roddie takes on the Aonach Eagach in the West Highlands. In the Lake District James Forrest does the Gable Girdle on Great Gable, Norman Hadley scrambles the east ridges of Nethermost Pike and Dollywagon Pike, Ian Battersby goes up Thorn Crag on Harrison Stickle, and Vivienne Crow climbs Steel Edge on Wetherlam and Prison Band on Swirl How. Finally, in Eryri Andrew Galloway goes up Yr Wyddfa via Cribau. 

   

A video on gear for a forthcoming overnight trip

 

The Dava Moor Fires

Wildfires are dangerous, destructive, and terrifying. We all know that. When one comes close to your home it all becomes much more real though.  This has just happened with wildfires where I live, one coming just eight kilometres from our house. The fires raged for four days before being declared over. All the local roads were closed. There are many other isolated dwellings in the area.

The first inkling I had of a fire was driving home from Aviemore on a cloudy day. Approaching the house I noticed the towering clouds had a strange colour to them. Must be the sun, I thought. Later my partner said she could smell smoke. A search on social media showed reports of one or two or maybe three wildfires burning not far away.

Finding information was difficult. It was the weekend when local news tends to shut down. Initially our only source of news was social media, especially Facebook group Grantown Grapevine and page Highlands, Islands, Moray and Aberdeenshire Weather. This is where social media is really valuable.  From a series of posts we learnt about the extent and whereabouts of the fires. Some info was confusing as no-one had a clear picture of what was happening but overall a general picture built up. Gradually more became known. A NASA satellite image was posted showing the location of the fires. One was certainly too close for comfort. The wind, thankfully, was blowing it away from us.

By the end of the second day traditional media was catching up and local newspapers, TV and radio were reporting the fires. Once the weekend was over national media joined in. There were also reports from Highland Council, Police Scotland, and the Scottish Fire and Rescue Service about the state of the fires and the road closures.

On day 3 the wind changed and blew from the direction of the fires. Soon we could see and smell smoke in the fields outside. Not knowing exactly where the nearest fire was or how fast it was moving we discussed what we’d take with us if we had to evacuate. With rain forecast for the evening we checked the weather forecast constantly. We wanted that rain so much! Late in the evening it arrived and we relaxed, a little.

-All this time firefighters, estate workers, and volunteers were fighting the fires, a huge effort for which we are very thankful. There was a great community effort to support them too. The disaster brought everyone together. With all the roads closed we decided the best thing we could do was stay put and not risk getting in anybody’s way.

Thankfully no-one was hurt or killed and, as far as I know, no property damaged or destroyed. The fires were on Dava Moor a large area of moorland mostly used for grouse shooting and sheep with a few areas of woodland to the north of the Cairngorms National Park. Few people live there. It could so easily have been much worse.

It’s bad for the wildlife of the area though, much of which will have perished. Any that survived will have to find new habitats as it will be a while before plant life returns.

The day after the emergency was declared over I went to see the aftermath. It was as shocking as I expected, huge areas of moorland burnt black, trees dead and scorched. Mile after mile of devastation. The smell of smoke still hung in the air. Across Lochindorb the ground still smouldered, trails of windblown white smoke rippling across the blackened earth. A helicopter was still at work, catching water from the loch to dump on the hot ground and dampen down the chance of the fire reviving. The ground is covered in peat. This can remain hot underground long after the last flames have gone and then burst out again. Ensuring it is thoroughly soaked is essential.

All the pictures with this piece were taken the day after the fires were declared over.

How the fires started isn’t yet known. The police and fire service are carrying out an investigation. There’s much speculation online, of course. As I have no information I’m staying out of this. I think it’s best to wait for the official report. What is clear though is that climate change makes such fires more likely, with more extreme weather, including long dry spells, occurring more often. No single event can be put down to climate change but an increase in them can. Sadly, that means that more fires like this are almost certain to occur.

Climate change doesn’t directly cause fires of course, just makes them more likely. As there were no thunderstorms in the area these weren’t lightning caused fires. They were undoubtedly human caused.

Now there are many ways people can cause fires to start on bone dry vegetation including the sun shining through discarded glass, discarded still lit cigarette butts, lack of care with disposable barbecues (which should be banned), and, of course, abandoned and badly sited campfires. Great care needs to be taken with anything that could cause a fire.

Campfires have definitely been the cause of some destructive fires in many areas, and their use seems to be on the increase. Certainly I’ve found and dismantled more rings of rocks and tried to remove traces of fires far more often in recent years.  Rangers report the same and there are many reports on social media of campfire problems. Usually these have been in unsuitable places – on grass, under trees, on peaty ground.

Badly sited campfires cause damage apart from the risk of starting a wildfire. Rings of stones pockmark grass and burnt earth takes years to recover. Too often branches are broken or hacked off living trees, showing a lack of knowledge as green wood doesn’t burn easily. Standing and fallen dead wood is needed ecologically too, especially in areas without many trees.

I don’t think there’s any need to have campfire in Britain. If people do insist on one then it should be on a campsite that allows them, or the builder should know when and how to make one that is no risk to the surroundings and leaves no trace. If you don’t know how to do that don’t build a campfire.

I also think that campfires should not be promoted on social media, something that is unfortunately too common. I think doing so is irresponsible. Even if the fire fulfils the above criteria those copying it may not have the same skills or knowledge. Spreading the idea that campfires are an integral part of camping is wrong. They’re not, at least not in Britain.

A video look at what's in my daypack

 

Twenty years ago today I began the GR20 in Corsica

 

The terrain gets tough

Midday on June 26, 2005 and I set off on the GR20 long-distance path in Corsica with Cameron McNeish. It was a mistake. Not hiking the GR20 or being with Cameron. The noon start. Straight from the Scottish Highlands we felt the heat instantly. The sun was blazing down from an unreal blue sky. From the little town of Calenzana the trail climbed through sun burnt fields towards distant mountains. There was little shade. We'd soon drunk all our water. The first spring was incredibly welcome.

The trail starts.

We did acclimatise, eventually. But a predawn or evening start would have been sensible. So would starting at the southern end of the trail. By starting in the north we had the steepest, toughest sections first. I'd never been on a waymarked trail with so much exposure and scrambling. Overall it was a wonderful trip though.

Welcome shade! There wasn't enough.

These pictures were all taken on that first day. I used a 6 megapixel Canon EOS 300D DSLR with a Canon EF-S 18-55mm lens, my first digital camera setup.

Looking back to Calenzana.

Water, delicious water!

Goats, trees, mountains. 

First camp.

Video of a walk over Geal-charn Mor earlier this month

 

A little video from the Outdoor Trade Show

 A short video from OTS, to go along with my last post.

Thoughts & pictures from this year's Outdoor Trade Show in Liverpool

 

Last week I was down south in Liverpool for the annual Outdoor Trade Show. I've been attending such shows for many decades in many places and after a while they all blend together, the venues interchangeable - cavernous, echoing, harshly lit, windowless  halls populated by a myriad stands promoting outdoor gear of every sort. The ambience is about as far away from the actual outdoors as you can get. I do enjoy them though!

Indoors

The Exhibition Centre in Liverpool is my favourite of all those venues. Not because it's different in itself. It isn't, but because you can walk outside and there's the river Mersey, the smell of the sea, the sound of gulls, a touch of nature. 

Outdoors

Whilst looking at new items is why I'm there it's meeting people that's the heart of the show. Many I only meet here though I'm in contact with them regularly. There are other writers, photographers, reviewers, as well as the PR people (and I do have friends amongst the latter). There are always new people to meet too and this year I had chats with YouTuber Fellmandave who has an interesting look at the show on his channel, and Sarah Williams of the Tough Girl Podcast, who has an amazing list of outdoor adventures to her name. 

I was also please to meet Steph Wetherell (@steph_wetherell) for the first time, as she's one of the TGO gear reviewing team who I've corresponded with and co-written articles with but had never actually met. Also there from TGO were editor David Lintern, who I'd travelled down with on the long train journey from the Cairngorms, and Neil Tillott, who I'd met at previous shows and who deals with marketing and advertising.

Familiar names

I also mustn't forget a guy I ended up sitting next to at the OTS social on the second evening who turned out to not only be a fellow Nordic skier but also to have attended the same much-missed Telemark Ski  weekends organised by Braemar Mountain Sports many years ago. We spent some time happily reminiscing. I can't however remember his name (it was after a long day,  the event was noisy, and I might have had a few beers but that's still no excuse) nor can I find his contact details. I'm sure we exchanged these!

Vango's big orange pyramid dominated the show. I used it to orientate myself!

Most of my time was spent looking at gear though. I'll be testing some of the new stuff for The Great Outdoors in future months (and writing an overview of the show - online now) and also for this blog and my YouTube channel. For now here's some pictures and words on a few of the products. Note that some of this gear won't be available until next year. 

New to the show were Nortent, whose original Vern 1 I tested last year (see this video). The current version is a quite different design however.

Also new to the show was Mont Adventure Equipment from Australia (not France, as I wrongly assumed) who showed some products that look ideal for UK conditions - tents with tough materials (25,000mm hydrostatic head!) and long high performance waterproof jackets.

Long jackets!

Vango showed a very familiar tent, a Force Ten Classic. Except this new version is made from ultralight materials and weighs just 2.5kg.

MSR are also lightening the weight of some of their tents with new materials. The Hubba Hubba NX is now the Hubba Hubba HD 1 and is now a bit roomier as well as lighter.

Terra Nova has an interesting new solo tent that pitches with trekking poles. It's a similar configuration to the Laser tent except that it has two porches and the ridge between the upright poles creates better headroom. It weighs 1.14kg.

Rab has a new construction method for sleeping bags that means they are warmer and lighter weight.

Rab also has a new 40-litre pack, the Syclon XP 40, made with recycled fabrics, fully taped seams, and a new carry system.

Gregory has new and redesigned packs again with construction and material changes leading to lower weights.

There was much now clothing at the show, including many waterproofs with replacement fabrics for Paclite, which is no longer available. One product that caught my eye was the new Paramo Velez Shorts with multiple pockets.

Escape!

Rainbows, trees, & clouds: a walk over Geal-charn Mor

Rainbow over Loch Alvie

I wasn’t expecting rainbows to dominate a walk over Geal-charn Mor in the Monadh Liath hills. I thought it would be Brew Dog’s disastrous ‘Lost Forest’ tree-planting exercise that has resulted in long deer fences across the hills and masses of the new trees dying (see this Parkswatch Scotland post) that occupied my thoughts. However the weather took control with a series of stunning rainbows, dark rain squalls racing across the sky and a fierce chilling wind. This was not flaming June!

Cairn Gorm & Cairn Lochan

The day began with a walk up the bulldozed track called the Burma Road. The lower forest was lush and green with the birches newly in leaf. As I left the trees I looked back over the woods to rain squalls streaking across the Cairngorms.

Old pines

Across the glen a few old pines graced the skyline on Creag Ghleannain. Below them I could just see many newly planted little trees. Brew Dog is in the process of replacing those that have died, completely unnecessarily as those old pines are a seed source. Reduce the deer numbers and the forest will return naturally. Further up the glen lines of vehicle tracks marked the slopes high up. I couldn’t see if the new trees here were dead or alive.

By the time I reached the top of the track the wind was strong enough and the showers prolonged enough for my waterproof jacket. I took the well-worn footpath up Geal-charn Mor. Despite recent rain the usually muddy sections were dry.

Geal-charn Mor

A low curving wall of stones around the summit trig point gave some protection from the wind. Sitting inside this for a snack and a drink I noticed a small patch of light quite a way below me. At first I thought it was a spot of sunlight though there was a strange hazy luminescent quality to it that didn’t seem right. Watching as it slowly grew I began to see colours appearing and I realised I was looking down on the gently curved top of a rainbow. I can’t remember seeing anything like this before.

Looking down on a raibow

I returned down the path that descends to follow the Caochan Ruadh burn. This is much pleasanter than the Burma Road, a real hill path not a wide bulldozed vehicle road. I passed through a gate in a long deer fence and soon saw masses of little trees poking through the heather, each in a cleared area of mineral soil. I wonder how many will survive.

Cotton grass with rainbow

A few springs were sluggishly spreading water over the ground in places but it was still mostly dry and there was no danger of wet feet. Damper areas were covered with cotton grass, the fluffy white flowers bobbing in the wind. Rain squalls blasted past in a rush of wind, rainbows came and went. I watched the clouds streaming over Braeriach as I headed down towards Loch Alvie.

Loch Alvie

The final rainbow was a double one, the inner ring startlingly bright. I walked towards it for what seemed like hours, entranced. Then it faded into rain as I finished the what had been a more glorious walk than expected in wet fields and woods.

It rained