Mountain Style: the history of British outdoor clothing

Outdoor clothing has changed dramatically since I started going to the hills back in the 1960s. There was little specialist clothing back then and the basic materials were wool and cotton. Technical fabrics meant Ventile cotton (still around!) and similar. There was no big outdoor industry either. 

How we got from there to here is told in this excellent new book by Henry Iddon and Max Leonard. The story of how climbers and innovators, often starting out with no money and just a sewing machine in a back room, helped create the vast outdoor industry we know today is fascinating. 

To produce the book the authors did a huge and impressive amount of research, talking to company founders, key innovators and designers; compiling brochures, catalogues and magazine reviews; and sourcing original garments. Here you'll find the stories of Mountain Equipment, Berghaus, Rab, Rohan, Craghoppers, and many, many more, some long gone. There's also the rise of the technical materials, starting, of course, with Gore-Tex, plus Pertex, fleece, polycotton, Velcro, Lycra and more, that allowed the new companies to develop new designs.

The large format book is packed with illustrations from studio photos of garments taken specially to ones of clothing in use, company logos, advertisements, and catalogue pages. 

Having been involved in the outdoor trade as a gear reviewer since the late 1970s and a hill goer since the 1960s I was asked to contribute an essay on my personal experience of the history of outdoor clothing and the rise of the outdoor industry. This has become the introduction to the book and I'm honoured by that as this is a marvellous book that tells a story that deserves to be recorded and remembered.

Mountain Style is published by Isola Press and can be purchased here. 

Kickstarter fund raiser for Mountain Style: The first illustrated history of British outdoor clothing – apparel that took us further, faster and higher, and became style classics.

A fascinating book on the history of British outdoor clothing is due out this autumn. The authors Henry Iddon and Max Leonard are seeking funds on Kickstarter to meet the costs of publishing. 

Advertising through the years

The book will be packed with illustrations from advertisements and magazines as well as archive photographs of the clothing in use in the British hills and further afield in the Alps and Himalayas showing just how styles and fabrics changed dramatically in the last half of the twentieth century. The authors have spent years doing detailed research and have interviewed many of the key figures involved in what was a period of rapid development and innovation.

Fylde Mountain Club, 1960s. Credit: Tony Iddon

As well as the clothing the book covers the rise of the main brands, both those still with us today and those long gone. I had clothing from most of those in the picture below.

Disappeared brands

I've written an essay for the book, looking at the clothing I wore on long-distance walks from the 1970s onwards and my involvement with the outdoor trade as a gear reviewer.

I think this looks a wonderful book that I'm very much looking forward to reading. Just the photos I've seen bring back many memories. It deserves support.

Troll 1980s and Peter Storm 1970s

There's much more information, including the rewards for different levels of support, on the Kickstarter page.  

 

Managing Clothing To Stay Comfortable On A Cold Day In The Cairngorms

Top of the Fiacaill a' Choire Chais

On the cold day out in the Cairngorms described in my last post I needed, as so often, to adjust my clothing frequently to stay comfortable – that is, to regulate my body heat so I never felt too hot or too cold. Now when the weather conditions vary – sometimes windy, sometimes not, warmer temperatures lower down, colder ones higher up – and exertion does too – climbing steeply, resting, descending – this can be impossible to do perfectly but by paying attention to how your body feels and altering your clothing to suit it is possible to never feel uncomfortable for long.The key to this is to have several layers that fit over each and have options for ventilation.

On this trip I set out in a cool breeze in intermittent sunshine with temperatures just above freezing (the snow was wet in the car park) on a roughly 600 metre ascent to the Cairngorm Plateau. I was wearing a thin merino/polypropylene long-sleeved base layer, thin but tightly woven wool shirt (EDZ Merino Wool Flannel Shirt), and a cotton windproof jacket (Klattermusen Loride - my review here) that is much more breathable than a waterproof. On my legs I had tough, heavy-duty softshell trousers (Keela Scuffers). As the occasional sunshine was in my eyes I also wore a mesh baseball cap with a big peak (it also kept my hair, which needs trimming, out of my eyes).

On the Plateau

On the ascent I soon started to feel hot and unzipped my jacket, undid the top buttons on the shirt, and unzipped the thigh vents on the trousers. I was then just warm enough until I reached the big cairn at the top of the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais where the temperature was well below freezing and the breeze stronger. The trouser vents, shirt buttons, and jacket zip were all quickly closed, and the baseball cap swapped for a warm double-layer beanie, a very old Craghoppers one with a 50/50 wool/acrylic outer and a polyester microfleece lining. My hands were cold by the time I’d done all this and unwrapped and eaten some chocolate so I also dug out my old Pertex/pile Buffalo Mitts. These provide almost instant warmth and whilst you can’t do much with your hands with them on they can be taken off and put back on very quickly. Mitts are warmer than gloves too as they keep your fingers together.

Stob Coire an t-Sneachda & Cairn Lochan

Dressed like this I headed over Stob Coire an t-Sneachda and up Cairn Lochan. The wind came and went. My temperature went up and down. The mitts and hat came on and off – stuffed into my jacket pockets when not worn.  My jacket hood went up and down too as the wind occasionally cut through the beanie.

On Cairn Lochan

On Cairn Lochan the east wind was much stronger and colder. I had a longer break here, just west of the summit for a bit of shelter. Here I donned a light synthetic insulated jacket over my other layers (Outdoor Research SuperStrand Hoodie – my review) and pulled up the hood. With four layers on my body and three on my head I was warm enough while I ate a sandwich, drank some hot ginger cordial, and wandered as near as I dared to the edge of the cliffs to look into the depths of Coire an Lochain.

When I set off I kept the insulated jacket on as the wind was strengthening and light snow was falling. I expected I’d need to remove it after ten minutes or so but in fact kept it on almost all the way back to the car as the wind grew colder and colder. I did lower both hoods but that was it until I was on a level with the car park and starting to feel a little too warm.

On the descent

At no point during the walk did I get sweaty so my base layer stayed dry. I did feel chilly occasionally, but clothing adjustment soon solved this. If I’d had longer stops I’d probably have put on the down jacket I had in the pack. I also had waterproofs in case of wet snow or, lower down, rain. They would have added extra warmth too if needed. In particular the overtrousers would have added a windproof layer for my legs and I did think about putting them on during the descent as I could feel the occasional gust of cold wind through my trousers.

I also had liner gloves, Primaloft insulated gloves, and waterproof overmitts in my pack along with a Paramo Cap and spare socks. In case of a very long stop or even a benightment I also had a bivi bag, a bothy bag, and a short closed-cell foam mat. 

I've given brand names of the ckothing I wore for those interested. There are of course plenty of alternatives that also work well.

Contrasts: same place, different days

February 18

February 19

Following my last post here are two selfies. Sums up the conditions on each day!

Today is a mix of thaw, rain, sleet, snow.

Hats & Gloves Time

Warm hats, gloves and mitts are back in my pack now and will stay there until next summer. I expect to wear them just about every day. Here’s an extended version of a piece about them I wrote for The Great Outdoors a few years ago.

As winter sets in warm hats and gloves or mitts become important items in your kit. A cold head and cold hands are painful and unpleasant and can be dangerous. A warm hat makes a dramatic difference as much heat can be lost through an uncovered head. Cold hands can make opening and closing packs and garments and handling map and compass difficult or even impossible.

Hats

The big choice in hats is between windproof and non-windproof ones. The former mean you need to put up your jacket hood less often and they are usually warmer for the weight. The latter are often softer and more comfortable though. I carry one of each. I like a non-windproof one on days with little wind and in my tent when camping. Having two hats also means I have a spare if one gets soaked or even blows away. To prevent the latter neck cords are useful. Windproof hats often have them, non-windproof ones rarely. 

For windproof hats I find cap styles with a peak and ear flaps best. These have a weatherproof shell and a fleece or softshell inner. I don’t like windproof fleece hats as these aren’t as breathable. For non-windproof hats I have half a dozen wool or fleece beanies to choose from, some thicker and warmer than others. Double-layer ones are warmest but which one I wear depends on which I lay my hands on first. An old hat I’m very fond of – it’s been on many trips – is a WindPro fleece one with a wicking lining. This has earflaps and a neck cord and resists moderate winds. I haven’t seen anything like it for a while. With beanies I like ones big enough to pull down over my ears if needed. 

Gloves & Mitts

With gloves and mitts I carry three pairs – thin, thick, and shell – sized to go over each other so I can wear them all in the worst weather. I also carry a fourth pair – usually midweight – as a spare. Mitts are warmer than gloves as they keep your fingers together, but they also limit dexterity much more. Simple shell mitts are good for pulling on over gloves for protection against wind, rain, and snow – they are pretty waterproof if the seams are taped. The thinnest gloves, often called liner gloves, allow you to use your hands easily but aren’t as warm as thicker ones. Thick gloves or mitts give less dexterity but are much warmer. Often these have a waterproof membrane in them. I’ve never found them totally waterproof though.

For use with trekking poles and ice axes gloves or mitts with reinforced fingers and palms last longest. Soft fabrics without this can wear through very quickly.

Gloves with an inner layer only sewn on at the wrist, a feature of many ski gloves, can be very difficult to get on when your hands are cold or wet as you try and push the inner fingers into the outer ones. I’d avoid them.

To prevent heat loss and rain or snow entering gloves and mitts should work with your jacket cuffs so there’s no gap here. Thin gloves usually fit inside even the tightest jacket cuff. Thicker ones may not do so. Gauntlet type mitts and gloves should fit over any cuffs. Some gloves have zips at the wrist so they can be tightened to fit under cuffs or opened to go over them.

In recent years my most worn gloves have been thin synthetic insulated ones with windproof shells. These are surprisingly warm for the weight and allow good dexterity. They’re not waterproof but do dry quickly. In blizzards I wear shell mitts over them. For maximum warmth I carry gloves or mitts with thick synthetic insulation. These are great for warming up my hands if they get cold. I often put them on after lunch and photography stops when I only wear liner gloves so I can use my hands, which then get cold. After an hour or two walking my hands get hot and I take the very warm ones off. On milder days I may not wear them at all. I never leave them at home though.

When you need to use your fingers thick gloves and mitts usually have to come off. To stop them blowing away and to keep them warm it’s best to stuff them inside your clothing, preferably in a pocket. Putting them on the ground is a good way for a gust of wind to send them soaring away into the distance. Wrist loops are useful when you’re only removing your gloves or mitts for a short while.

A Look At Insulated Clothing

A light down jacket worn over an ultralight synthetic jacket at a cold camp in the Cairngorms

From now until sometime next May an insulated jacket will be in my pack on every hill walk. It’ll be thick enough to keep me warm when stationary in freezing stormy weather. I may also be wearing a thinner insulated jacket when walking too. On every camping trip and in the coldest weather on day walks I’ll carry insulated trousers too. Such garments are great for comfort and also good for safety. I’ve written many reviews of insulated garments over the years, You can read some of them, such as this one, on The Great Outdoors website. Here is an edited piece I wrote for the magazine about insulated garments in general.

The basic choice in insulated clothing is between down and synthetic fills. The latter have improved noticeably in recent years but despite this down is still warmer for the weight and more compact when packed. Down is longer lasting too, though the latest synthetics are pretty durable, and also soft and very comfortable, moulding to the body for near instant warmth.

A light synthetic jacket worn on a damp stormy day

The big plus point of synthetics is resistance to moisture. They soak up less water and dry much quicker than standard down. Hydrophobic down, which has a water repellent treatment, is more resistant to moisture but still not as good as synthetics. Nothing is very comfortable when sodden though. In rain down clothing is generally too warm to wear while moving anyway and you probably won’t need it at rest stops – if you do getting it on and then pulling a waterproof over the top can be done quickly (if you plan on doing this make sure your waterproof jacket is big enough). Also, down clothing usually has a DWR treatment that keeps rain out for short periods. Whilst getting down clothing soaked is best avoided a little dampness isn’t a problem. I’ve used down garments for two-week trips in very humid conditions with wet snow or rain most days and they’ve stayed dry and kept me warm as they were never directly exposed to the weather for very long.

New types of synthetic insulation have made it more comparable with down. Some of these new insulation materials are made up of loose fibres rather than matts and can be blown into compartments like down. Garments with these can often be recognised by the typical stitch lines between compartments, making them look just like down ones. Synthetic insulation is made from oil. To reduce the environmental impact of using this some companies have started making insulation from recycled materials.

 

Down jacket on the summit of Ben Macdui

Down comes from geese and ducks bred for food. Until a decade or so ago there was little concern about the conditions in which these birds were kept or how they were treated. However, investigations by environmental and animal rights organisations showed that some were force-fed for foie gras while others were live-plucked, and many were kept in poor conditions. This resulted in many companies setting standards for down supply.

Garments fall into two categories. Thick, warm ones designed to be worn at rest stops and in camp, but which are too warm for walking except in extreme cold and lighter, thinner ones that can be worn all day in cold weather. The latter are replacements for a thick fleece or softshell. They can be worn on their own – most are windproof and water-resistant – or under a shell. Because synthetic insulation works okay when damp garments can be pulled on over wet waterproofs, so you don’t lose any heat removing the latter.

FEATURES

A lightweight down jacket

 

Fill

Down and synthetic fills both have advantages and disadvantages. Down is lighter and more compact for the warmth and lasts longer if cared for properly. Synthetic insulation performs better when wet and dries more quickly. Each type comes in different forms.

There are now quite a few synthetic fills, many of them companies own (these may be the same under different names). PrimaLoft is the leading brand and there are now several varieties of this fill alone.

Down quality is measure by fill power, which is how much a given amount of down will rise or loft when uncompressed. The higher the fill power the more loft the down has, making high fill power down warmer for the weight.

Some down garments have synthetic insulation at key points for moisture resistance.

Hydrophobic down resists moisture far better than standard down. It’s still wise to avoid getting it wet though.

A light synthetic insulation jacket

Shell Fabrics

Shells are usually made from tightly woven nylon or polyester fabrics as these are windproof, breathable and downproof. They dry fast too and can be quite water-resistant if they have a good DWR treatment. Pertex is the leading brand but there are similar fabrics. They are all usually quite thin and so don’t have the tear or abrasion resistance needed for scrambling or bushwhacking. However, they are mostly quite smooth, so a shell can be worn over them without it binding and restricting movement.

Waterproof/breathable shells are found on some insulated garments. They do make them waterproof but also a little bulkier and more expensive.

Pockets

Insulated hand warmer pockets are very useful in a warm garment. Jacket pockets that can be accessed while wearing a pack hipbelt are the best if you plan on walking in a garment. Roomy pockets into which you can stuff hats and gloves when you’re not wearing them for short periods are worth having too – ones inside the garment are especially useful for this as hats and gloves will stay warm.

Hoods

Whilst not essential a warm hood can be very welcome on a stormy day and replaces the need for a separate hat. Adjustable hoods are best as these can be tightened to stop them blowing off in strong winds.

 

Down jacket, synthetic insulated trousers & bootees at a very cold Caingorms camp

Trousers

Full-length leg zips are useful on insulated trousers so you can easily pull them on over footwear. However if you carry them for sleeping ones without zips are the most comfortable.

Weight & bulk

Down garments are very light for the warmth provided. The heavier ones are suitable for temperatures well below freezing, the lightest can be carried in summer for cool evenings and combined with other warm garments in sub-zero temperatures. Synthetic insulated garments are generally heavier  and bulkier for similar warmth. The thinnest synthetic insulated garments are equivalent in warmth to heavyweight fleece and can be used as midlayers.

Size

Having the same size label doesn’t mean that garments are actually the same size as each other. Some garments are sized to fit closely so if you want to wear them over a fleece or softshell a size larger than normal is needed. Other garments are sized to fit over several layers and feel baggy worn over just a base layer. Sizing isn’t consistent between companies either. I’m a Large in some garments, a Medium in others.

Winter Is Coming! What I Wear & What I Carry

A frosty morning on Sgor Gaoith, October 17, 2015

October approaches and with it comes winter, at least in the hills. Whilst warm sunny days giving an illusion that it’s still summer do occur October days are more often chilly even if the sun is shining. Rainy and windy days are colder than only a few weeks ago. The first snows fall, often not lasting long but just as cold as later in the winter. Clear nights bring frosts and ice on pools.

October is also one of the most colourful months of the year with autumnal tints from glen to summit. Golds, russets and reds brighten the landscape as winter closes in. It’s a great month to get out in the hills but extra gear is required and it’s the month when I start to add items to my pack, beginning with extra clothing and headlamp. In the Scottish Highlands winter can begin in October. To illustrate this I’ve included some wintry October photos.

Storm on Bynack More, October 4, 2009

 

Quite a few years ago I wrote a piece about the gear I wear and carry in winter. Below is an updated version.

With winter approaching it’s time to search out the ice axe, crampons, insulated jacket, thick mitts, spare hats and insulated flask. Hillwalking becomes a more serious pastime in winter and gear needs to be selected carefully.

Here I’m going to look through my own daysack and discuss the clothing I wear as an example of what might be needed anytime from October to April.

RUCKSACK

A larger rucksack is needed in winter than summer in order to hold extra clothing and items like insulated flasks and crampons. It should have straps for ice axes too. I like a sack that is easy to get into and with enough space for gear to be packed quite loosely as this makes it easier to find items when fumbling around with cold fingers. 35-45 litres is about right. At least one reasonably sized pocket for small items is useful. A front compression panel is useful for snow shovel or crampons and mesh pockets for wet items, water bottles and flasks. Water-sensitive items are stored in waterproof stuffsacks, which I find more versatile than a pack liner. 

Frosty fields, snowy Cairn Gorm, October 17, 2012

WATERPROOF JACKET & OVERTROUSERS

Winter shell garments need to protect you from blizzards, spindrift, heavy rain and very strong winds. Lightweight summer garments can do so when combined with windproof midlayers but heavier clothing feels more secure and protective in prolonged bad weather. Shells can be worn all the time in winter as long as they’re comfortable and breathable enough. Good ventilation is needed too.

I find Paramo shell clothing ideal in winter and it’s been my choice for over two decades now. The trousers are warm enough that I only need another layer when it’s exceptionally cold and windy. The jackets have excellent wired hoods, roomy pockets and sleeves with wide cuffs for good ventilation. They can even be rolled up if it warms up.

WINDPROOF TOP

I generally wear the Paramo clothing all the time in winter conditions so I don’t need a separate windproof layer. If the weather is calm and mild and the Paramo looks like being too warm I sometimes wear a windproof top and carry a light waterproof jacket.

No snow but sub-zero temperatures on Ben Macdui, October 29, 2014

 

WARM TOPS

Unless the weather is mild I usually wear a thin fleece (100-weight or similar) over a base layer under the Paramo jacket. The fleece is the first item to go in the pack if I start to overheat. For rest stops I carry an insulated top. If the weather looks like being wet this will be a synthetic-filled jacket that’s large enough to fit over my shell jacket. If the latter is wet it doesn’t matter as the synthetic jacket will dry quickly and still keep me warm when damp. If the weather is frosty and dry and temperatures look like being below freezing I carry a down jacket.

Whichever the top I always keep it handy at the top of the rucksack and put it on as soon as I stop whether I feel cold or not. It’s much easier to stay warm than to get warm and you lose heat very quickly in cold weather.

LEGWEAR

In case of benightment or extreme cold I used to carry a pair of long johns. These are not easy to pop on when you feel a bit chilly though, making them really just emergency items. Having to remove your trousers to take them off if you overheat is a hassle too. In recent years I’ve carried synthetic insulated or down-filled trousers instead as these can be pulled on over your trousers, which makes much more sense. They’re comfortable for sleeping in too.

I usually carry a pair of waterproof overtrousers as well, not for their waterproof qualities, but so that I can pull them on if my legs feel slightly cold but the insulated trousers would be too warm. Lightweight ones with long or full length zips are best so they can be donned over boots.

GAITERS

I don’t like gaiters and only wear them if the snow is deep or the ground is very muddy. As they spend much time in the pack I like lightweight ones. 

Snow on the Cromdale Hills, October 15, 2012

GLOVES & MITTS

Cold hands are unpleasant, painful and can affect your ability to do things so good gloves or mitts are essential. I always carry four pairs – liner gloves, midlayer softshell or windproof fleece gloves, thick insulated mitts in case of extreme cold,and waterproof shell mitts that can be worn over any of the others. Having all these also means I have back-ups in case of loss (gloves can be whipped away by the wind very quickly).

WARM HATS

Wind can easily whip heat away from your head even with a warm hat unless the latter is windproof so when it’s stormy I like hats with windproof shells, especially as I prefer not to wear a jacket hood unless it’s absolutely essential. Fleece ones with peaks and ear flaps are ideal. Because warm headwear is so important and hats can blow away I usually carry a fleece or wool hat too, which is fine on calmer days and under a jacket hood when I really have to pull it up.

MAP & COMPASS

These are year round essentials of course. Even more than in summer I like to keep them in jacket pockets for quick access. I often carry a spare map too, in case one blows away. This has never happened but is always possible.

SMARTPHONE/GPS

In a blizzard finding your location on GPS mapping can make navigation much simpler – if you can use the device in the cold. Gloves designed to work with touchscreens and GPS units with large buttons make cold weather usage much easier. Carrying the device in a pocket helps keep it warm and prolongs battery life. It’s still always wise to carry a portable power pack too.

View over Strathspey to Sgor Gaoith & Sgoran Dubh Mor, October 7, 2011

HEADLAMP

Once the nights start to lengthen a good headlamp can be essential. I carry two. It’s much easier to swap them over if the batteries fade in one than change batteries – and much easier to change batteries when you can see. I always carry spare batteries too. Headlamps that use rechargeable batteries – an increasing number these days – can be charged from a portable power pack. However it’s not easy to use them whilst doing this so the other headlamp is always one that takes standard batteries.

SURVIVAL BAG/GROUP SHELTER

In summer I just carry a light bivi bag. In winter I prefer something a bit more protective so I take a group shelter, even when on my own. In a two-person one I can place my rucksack at one end and sit at the other. It’s far more comfortable than a bivi bag and I have used it as a lunch shelter on stormy days. It’s surprisingly warm inside a group shelter – condensation can be a problem – and great for morale even when alone.

SITMAT

Snow, ice and freezing rocks are not comfortable to sit on. A foam mat can make a huge difference. I often don’t carry one in summer. In winter I always do. It’s bigger than the tiny sit mats you see in outdoor shops too, being either an OMM DuoMat or an offcut from an old foam sleeping pad. Both fit neatly down the back of my rucksack.

Padded rucksack backs provide insulation too but if you sit on your pack make sure you’re not crushing anything fragile.

WATER BOTTLE/INSULATED FLASK

Freezing cold water from an ice fringed mountain stream may be a revitalising drink but it’s not that attractive during a blizzard. Sometimes streams are completely frozen too and at other times they can be hazardous to reach. Hot liquids warm you up and have a great effect on morale so I always carry an insulated flask, usually containing a hot spicy drink (Rocks Organic Fiery Ginger Cordial is great – it has chilli in it). Snow can be added to a flask to top up the contents – this tastes fine with fruit juices and other drinks that are okay when tepid but not so nice with tea or coffee. I usually carry a 600ml flask plus a half litre water bottle, which is carried in the rucksack inside spare clothing so it doesn’t freeze.

You can carry a stove and small pan for making hot drinks but I don’t usually bother on day walks. There’s little enough daylight in winter anyway without spending time boiling water or melting snow. Even on backpacking trips I carry a flask as well as a stove and fill it up in camp.

FOOD

As in summer any food will do but complex carbohydrates (bread, cake, biscuits, flapjack) are better than simple sugars at providing long term energy. Because food is needed to keep you warm as well as provide energy I carry more than in summer. Chocolate, which I never carry when it’s warm because it melts, is a winter favourite for snacks. 

The Northern Cairngorms, October 31, 2013

TREKKING POLES

It needs to be emphasised that a trekking pole is not a substitute for an ice axe. On any terrain where a slip could be hazardous you need to have your ice axe in your hand. If you’re not sure if the terrain is dangerous have your ice axe ready anyway.

That said, trekking poles can be just as useful in winter as summer. In deep snow they can be more useful, as long as you fit snow baskets to stop them sinking in too far. On hard snow and frozen ground that isn’t steep enough to warrant using an ice axe they can help with balance. As well as supports when walking poles can be used for checking whether snow over streams or bogs is solid or not.

ICE AXE

On any but the gentlest hills an ice axe is essential if there is much snow and ice. The length and whether to have a leash are debatable issues. Much more important is to know how to use your axe for both self-belay and self-arrest and to have it in your hand if it might be needed and not strapped on your pack. When an axe is needed only occasionally it can be slid between your back and the pack so you don’t need to remove the latter to get it.

CRAMPONS

Although an ice axe is the primary tool for snow-covered hills it’s not adequate on its own on hard snow or ice. Then you need crampons as well. Walkers don’t need the heavy, complex designs intended for ice climbing. Walkers’ crampons will fit even bendy boots.

SNOW SHOVEL

Few walkers carry a snow shovel but I regard one as an essential winter tool. It can be used for digging snow shelters if you’re stuck out, building snow walls for protection against the wind and digging victims out of an avalanche.

THE TOTAL LOAD

The total weight of all this gear, including clothing worn, is around 7-8 kilos, depending on exactly which items I take. That’s not too heavy for enjoyable walking while providing all the protection and safety needed in the winter hills.

Snow Strathspey woods, October 26, 2012