An Equinox Walk & Camp In The Cairngorms: Glen Feshie & Mullach Clach a' Bhlair

Beautiful sunshine in Glen Feshie

A sunny forecast for the equinox suggested a walk to welcome the spring. Glen Feshie and the Moine Mhor beckoned (it always does). I hadn’t been there since last August – far too long. The sun was indeed shining and the air was warm as I set off down the glen. High above I could see remnants of a recent snowfall edging the rim of the Moine Mhor plateau.

The Allt Garbhlach, the biggest stream forded, running into the river Feshie

Snowmelt and recent rain filled the streams rushing down from the hills. Care was needed to cross them without getting water in my boots. I just managed it apart from a few splashes. The river Feshie itself was roaring but not as full as I’d thought it would be, enabling me to walk on shingle banks next to the water where the river had swept away the path. That happened many years ago and a new steep narrow trail now climbs over a wooded spur above the river, essential when the shingle is under water.

Shingle banks by the river Feshie

After a third ford I searched out a campsite, finding one close to a flooded boggy area that was overflowing into a stream in little cascades, an unusual sight. 

A bog above a stream

From my tent I could look up to snow-streaked hills. All around were ancient pines and their much younger offspring along with juniper bushes and slender birches. It was a wonderfully peaceful camp.

A view to the hills

Once the sun disappeared the temperature dropped rapidly and I was soon in my sleeping bag and warm clothing in the tent heating up water for some hot soup and then a spicy meal. Then it was time for a long sleep.

Early morning

The equinox dawned chilly, the overnight temperature 2°C, but the rising sun was soon filtering through the trees and warming the world. However clouds quickly swept in over the tops, clouds that were moving fast and occasionally covered the sun. I stayed in the tent for breakfast.

The old track

The sun was shining again when I set off. My plan was to follow an old track up the flank of the south-west ridge of Mullach Clach a’ Bhlair and then up to the summit on a clearer path. The old track isn’t marked on Ordnance Survey maps but the start of it is on Harvey Cairngorms maps though it disappears after half a kilometre or so. I remembered I'd descended it many years earlier but I couldn't remember much about it. 

The track became less distinct as it left the trees

What I found was a little-used overgrown off-road vehicle track, often just two indistinct lines cutting through the heather with little trees growing between them. Once out of the forest the heather was thicker and deeper and the track almost buried. The line could still be followed though. As the slope steepened it became stony with water rushing down it, a stream rather than a path.

Lochan nam Bo

Eventually the track reached windswept Lochan nam Bo and joined a clearer track that ran up the broad ridge over Druim nam Bo to Mullach Clach a ‘Bhlair. The views were spacious, a wide world after the confines of the forest. To the south the air was hazy, the distant hills shadowy shapes.

The summit of Mullach Clach a ' Bhlair. From the left on the horizon Braeriach, Sgor an Lochan Uaine & Cairn Toul

Once I reached the summit the snow-covered higher summits to the east were sharp and clear. Beinn Bhrotain, Monadh Mor, Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochan Uaine, Braeriach. Wonderful familiar names, Wonderful familiar mountains. I never tire of them.

View over Coire Garbhlach to Meall Dubhag. The distant tiny pointed summit of Sgor Gaoith is just visible on the right

Although still sunny a strong gusty wind kept the air cold so I thought about descending back to Glen Feshie down a wide track just a kilometre away. This is the main way up to the Moine Mhor from this end of Glen Feshie.

Snowbanks on the edge of Coire Garbhlach with Sgor Gaoith just poking up on the left and Braeriach on the right

I was at the start of the descent when a steep hard snowbank stopped me. I couldn’t see how far down it extended or how much steeper it became. Just walking down it without donning my crampons seemed unwise. I was reluctant to stop and put them on for what might only be a short distance though. I also realised I was reluctant to leave the heights and the huge views and feeling of freedom so soon. The wind was at my back now, the sun was bright, and I was going well. 

View across the Moine Mhor to Sgor Gaoith

So I turned away from the steep snow and headed north across the Moine Mhor towards Carn Ban Mor and another track that would bring me down to the road in Glen Feshie not far from my car. There might be steep snow on this too. If there was I’d just have to deal with it.

Snow and water on the Moine Mhor

The walk across the Moine Mhor was glorious, the landscape shimmering and glowing. I crossed many snowfields, some soft, some crisp and crunchy. There were several pools where the edges of a snowbank had collapsed into a hollow. The water in them was dark. Small streams rippled across the brown moorland where the snow had thawed.

Looking back to Mullach Clach a' Bhlair

Reaching the final track I turned and looked back to the gentle rounded dome of Mullach Clach a’ Bhlair. Clouds were building up again. I didn’t mind. The equinox had been splendid.

There were snowbanks on the descent but none that needed crampons. I soon left them behind. Dusk was falling as I reached the first trees. A couple of stumbles and my head torch came out for the last half hour. A full mountain and forest day was over.