Winter Hillwalking Video .... again!

 

Winter has really begun in the Scottish Highlands with snow down to glen level so I'd thought I'd post this video about the gear I use for winter hillwalking again. It's now four years old but if I made it now it'd be much the same. 

I deliberately avoided brand names so that it wouldn't date too quickly. In fact many of the items or very similar ones are still available. 

Not mentioning brand names was wise as one of the few I do mention, Viewranger, is no more, I now use Topo GPS. 

I also say this is the first in a series of videos. I just haven't got round to making the next ones yet! This winter I promise I will. Honestly!

Clothing And Equipment Decisions On A Hill Walk

On the walk in the Cairngorms described in my last post I changed clothing and equipment a few times and eventually shortened my route. Here's what I did and why. 

I set off wearing a Paramo jacket over a thin fleece and base layer with mediumweight softshell trousers on my legs and a wool beanie on my head. I didn't wear gloves as there was only a light breeze and my hands didn't feel cold.The temperature was around freezing and there were patches of ice and hard old snow on the path. I hadn't climbed far before I felt too warm and stopped to remove the hat and fleece. 

Not long after that the terrain grew more slippery with frozen vegetation and an ice glaze on some of the rocks. The bare gravel sections of path and dry rocks were now few and far between. Realising I was slowing down and walking more carefully to avoid slipping I stopped to put on my crampons. A cool breeze had sprung up so I also donned a windproof peaked cap and some fairly thick liner gloves.

Continuing up confidently now - crampons make such a difference - I was soon nearing the broad ridge that runs north from Cairn Gorm. The wind was much stronger and colder here so I stopped again to don overtrousers as my legs were beginning to feel chilly. I should have done that before putting the crampons on! However my overtrouser legs unzip almost to the waist and by balancing carefully and using a boulder for support I managed to get them on over the crampons without tearing them. 

I also put my jacket hood up and swapped my windproof cap for the wool beanie and my liner gloves for slightly warmer ones with a windproof outer. Finally, as I now had big snowfields to climb where a slip could take me a long way I changed one of my trekking poles for my ice axe. The path had long disappeared under the snow.

Once I reached the ridge the wind eased and I lowered my hood. It was much colder though and I needed the overtrousers and the warm gloves. I stopped for a quick snack and a swig of hot ginger cordial. If it had been for more than a few minutes I'd have donned my insulated jacket.

My plan had been to wander up Cairn Gorm, now little more than a kilometre away, in the hope of a colourful sunset but the clear sky was rapidly clouding over and I could see the tops of peaks to the east slowly vanishing. Looking over the deep trench of Strath Nethy would be enough. I didn't feel like a navigation exercise in mist so I turned back, descending the same slopes I'd just come up.

I had a few stops on the way down as I started to feel warmer. The overtrousers came off, and then the gloves. As the snow patches shrank the ice axe became unnecessary and went back on the pack. I kept the crampons on though, all the way to where the path became mostly gravel rather than ice and snow.

This was only a relatively short four hour walk but it did take me to over 1000 metres in winter conditions. By adjusting my clothing several times I stayed comfortable without overheating. I never put my fleece back on but if I'd been wearing a standard waterproof jacket I would have needed it. Being two layer the Paramo jacket was warm enough while I was moving. As well as the insulated jacket I also had insulated trousers and a much thicker pair of gloves so I could have stayed warm in much colder and windier conditions.

The crampons were just about essential high up and the ice axe sensible on the steeper slopes. I'd have turned back if I hadn't had them.

Thoughts On Ice Axes And Crampons For Hillwalkers

Descending from The Window on Creag Meagaidh

The first snow on the hills this winter has gone now but more is forecast. On a walk on the Cairngorm Plateau last week before the snow went I wore heavy duty microspikes (Hillsound Trail Crampons) as the snow was hard and icy. I had an ice axe as well but didn’t use it – the snow was not deep enough for it to be any use and trekking poles were better for balance. I wouldn’t have left it at home though as I could have needed it if there’d been any deep drifts to cross.

In fact, if there’s snow on the hills I always carry an ice axe and crampons or microspikes. Both are important for safety. Which is best depends on your activities. For hillwalkers with no aspirations for technical winter climber the simplest ice axes and crampons or spikes designed for walkers are fine, and that is what I’m writing about here.

Hillwalking on snow and ice is a mountaineering discipline and needs extra skills. Being able to use an ice axe and crampons correctly is a major part of this. Just carrying them does not make you safe. Using an ice axe to protect yourself from slips and to stop falls if they occur requires training and practice. Similarly, how to walk in crampons and how to use them on different slopes whilst not difficult is not something to try and learn high in the hills in a blizzard. A course at an outdoor centre or with an instructor is the best way to learn.

In the Cairngorms

 

ICE AXES

Ice axes are rated CEN-B (basic)/UIAA Type 1 or CEN-T (technical)/UIAA Type 2. These ratings are decided by several tests to assess the strength of the axe. Unsurprisingly, CEN-T axes are stronger than CEN-B ones. Does this matter? Not for hillwalking and general mountaineering. B rated axes are fine for these activities and usually lighter and less expensive than T rated ones.

Picks

For hillwalking axes usually have a slightly down curving pick (sometimes called a classic curve), as this is good for self-arrest and for climbing steeper slopes where you swing the pick into the snow. Up curved picks are for technical climbing. A row of teeth under the pick helps it to grip.

Shaft

Until recently straight shafts were the norm for walking axes, curved ones again being the province of ice climbers. Now though some walking and general mountaineering axes have curved shafts. When climbing steep terrain using the pick above your head a curved shaft helps stop your knuckles bashing against the snow or ice. There is an argument that curved shafts give more leverage for self-arrest. I can’t say that I’ve noticed any significant difference when trying different axes and for hillwalking I would say straight and curved shafts are both fine. All axe shafts have a spike at the end for thrusting into the snow and this is the feature that gets the most use when hillwalking.

Rubberised coatings on shafts can make them warmer to hold and more secure to grip. These should be slim, so they don’t impede thrusting the axe into the snow. Some axes have indentations in the lower section for better grip.

Adze

The adze doesn’t get much use compared to the pick and the spike. If you’ll be doing much step-cutting – unlikely if you have crampons – or digging a snow shelter and you don’t have a snow shovel then a wide adze is more effective than a narrow one.

Material

Most ice axes have aluminium shafts and steel heads. The very lightest have aluminium heads. The latter are fine for occasional use and often used by ski tourers who probably won’t use an axe from one day to the next. However, aluminium isn’t as strong as steel and blunts more easily. For regular use a steel head is best.

Weight

Two other important factors are weight and length. The lighter your ice axe the less burden it is to carry. For hillwalking when the axe is held by the head almost all the time low weight is fine. However, if you’ll be doing much step-cutting or climbing using the pick then a light axe is more tiring to use.

 

In the Cairngorms

Length

Length is contentious. The trend in the UK (it’s not the same everywhere) is for short 50-55cm axes even for hillwalking. I prefer a much longer axe (60-70cms) as it feels more secure on easy angled slopes where a slip could still be dangerous as I don’t have to stoop to reach the snow with it, which feels particularly unstable when going downhill. I also find it easier to thrust a long axe into the snow to prevent a slip becoming a slide. Some say short axes are better for self-arrest. Maybe if that’s what was used when learning. I learnt with a long axe and am perfectly happy using one for self-arrest. I think an axe that reaches the ankle or even almost to the ground is best for hillwalking.

Whatever length or weight of axe you choose the most important factor is knowing how to use it properly. No ice axe is much use if you don’t know what to do with it.

Leashes

Leashes and wrist loops come with many axes and can be fitted to others. They mean that if you drop the axe it doesn’t disappear down the hill. However, they also mean that when changing direction you have to change the wrist loop from hand to hand, which can seem a nuisance if you have to do it often. 

My favourite ice axes. From the left: Camp Corsa (250g), an ultralight all aluminium 60cm axe I take when I don't expect to need an axe but just might (I once carried it coast to coast across Scotland on the Southern Upland Way in February and never used it once); Camp Nanotech Corsa (285 grams), same as the Corsa but with a steel tip to the pick and a steel spike, I use it when ski touring and backpacking; Grivel Helix (485g), a good 66cm general purpose axe with a plastic head cover for warmth and comfort that I take on day and overnight trips when I expect to use an axe; Petzl Glacier (410g), an alternative to the Helix, slightly lighter and slightly longer at 68cms. I can't decide which I like best. 

CRAMPONS

On hard snow rubber soles have little if any grip. It can be difficult to stay upright on the flat, let alone on a slope. Sheet ice is even more slippery. Put metal spikes on your boots and suddenly that slipperiness vanishes and hazardous terrain becomes easy and safe. Even after decades of wearing crampons every winter the first time I put them on in the autumn I’m still amazed at the difference they make. If there’s snow on the hills I don’t go without them. In fact, I reckon I use crampons or micro spikes more than an ice axe, as often there’s not enough snow for an axe to be any use but enough ice to make walking tricky and even dangerous. On one occasion I wore crampons the whole way to Ben Macdui and back without taking my ice axe off my pack as the whole Cairngorm Plateau was a sheet of ice. 

Alex Roddie cutting a quick avalanche pit to check the stability of a slope on Bynack More, Cairngorms

Footwear

Rigid mountaineering boots are usually recommended for winter hillwalking. If you’ll be doing anything approaching technical climbing then they are a good idea. I don’t think they’re necessary otherwise. Boots that have some forward flex are easier to walk in and less tiring on the feet. Many walking and general mountaineering boots will fit these. Indeed, some will fit just about any outdoor footwear, including trail shoes. I prefer boots though because I don’t like cold, wet feet and they allow me to kick steps if I’m not wearing crampons.

Whatever footwear you choose it’s important that your crampons fit them properly and that you know how to put them on securely. Practising this at home is a good idea. Trying to figure out the strapping system with cold fingers as a blizzard closes in is not a good idea. Crampons aren’t all the same shape, and neither are boot soles, so they need to be compatible. Checking the fit in the store when you buy new crampons or boots is the best way to do this. A properly fitted crampon shouldn’t come off when you hold it upside down with the boot attached and the straps undone and shake it.

Types of Crampons and Micro Spikes

Tiny spikes linked by chains and attached to footwear by stretchy harnesses are the simplest form of crampons. Often called microspikes they work okay on level and gently sloping ground and they are excellent on icy paths. The short spikes don’t grip as well as the longer ones found on full crampons but are easier for balance when the ice is thin. Once slopes begin to steepen microspikes become less effective and awkward to use. I carry them when I don’t expect to encounter much snow or ice but there might be the occasional patch I have to cross. Sometimes conditions mean I wear them for longer, as I did a week before writing this, when I put them on to cross an icy snow slope on the Cairngorm Plateau and then kept them on for the descent as they made walking so much more secure. The snow and ice cover was thin though.

Full crampons attach more firmly to boots and have longer points. They may be rigid or flexible. The first are designed for rigid boots and technical climbing and aren’t suitable for use with walking boots. Flexible crampons are made of two sections linked by a bar and can be used with flexible boots. These are known as general mountaineering, trekking, or walking crampons. The flexible linking bars come in different degrees of stiffness. With some crampons you have the option of more or less flexible ones.

Crampons usually have ten or twelve points though ice climbing ones may have more and simple walkers’ ones less (and some micro spikes more – I have ones with 18 points). Ones with points that angle outwards from the front (called front points) are useful for climbing steep slopes when you can just stick them in the snow for grip. Points should be spread out along the boot sole for maximum grip. The length of points is not a major consideration, but shorter ones are more stable when walking on rocks or bare ground, something often done in the British hills when the snow and ice is patchy.

Crampons with a view, Cairngorms

Materials

Most crampons are made from heat treated steel as this is hard wearing and the points stay sharp for a long time and can be easily sharpened. The lightest crampons are made from aluminium. These don’t stay sharp very long and aren’t as tough as steel ones. However, they are fine for most walking use.

Attachments

There are various ways of attaching crampons. Plastic cradles that mould round the heel and toe of a boot and are then held in place by a single strap can be used with flexible boots and are quite easy to fit. Clip bindings with a heel lever and a front bail, usually linked with a strap, are even easier to attach but will only fit boots with a pronounced welt at the toe and heel. They are also best used with rigid boots as they can spring off flexible ones. Some crampons come with heel levers and front cradles, a good compromise.

Balling Up

Soft snow can stick to crampons, leading to large clumps building up underneath them. This is known as balling up and makes walking uncomfortable and can be hazardous. The traditional way to get rid of this snow is to tap the side of the crampons with your ice axe. This works but may need to be done frequently. It can also be awkward on steep slopes when you need your axe for safety and balance. Much safer and more efficient are anti-ball plates, usually made of rubber or plastic, which fit underneath the crampons. All crampon makers offer these, and an increasing number are supplying them as standard. 

My favourite crampons. Clockwise from top left: Hillsound Trail Crampon Pro, 700g with ten steel points a little shorter than on many crampons and with a ratchet closed cradle harness that's the easiest to attach that I've used - ideal for most uses; Black Diamond Neve Pro, 600g 10-point aluminium crampons with wide bails to fit telemark and nordic ski boots (most crampons are too narrow); Grivel Air Tech Light, 590g aluminium 12-point crampons suitable for steeper slopes; Kahtoola KTS Steel, 690g 10-point steel crampons with short points and webbing straps, designed for flexible footwear; Hillsound Trail Crampons, heavy duty microspikes with 11 carbon steel points.

 

Winter Is Coming: Time To Prepare

Ben Macdui, October 16, 2020

The first dustings of snow in the hills have appeared recently. Winds and cold icy rain have swept the slopes. Winter arrives much earlier on the tops than in the glens. The air may be mild in the woods but bitter high up. I've already added hats, gloves, and an insulated jacket to my pack, They'll stay there until late spring. Once ice axe, crampons and maybe snow shovel are needed I'll go to a bigger pack too. When there's snow on the hills the light mesh trail shoes are changed for light waterproof boots. I love trail shoes but I hate freezing feet. 

Sleet on Meall a'Bhuachaille, October 9, 2020

I do love this time of year. I love the anticipation. Waiting to see what the winter will bring. I look forward to the first frosty camp, the first crisp black starry sky surounded by mountain silhouettes, the first unbroken snow in a landscape reborn. If you're well prepared winter can be the best time of year in the mountains.

A frosty camp in the Cairngorms, October 17, 2020

 Two years ago I made a little video about my winter kit. Here it is.

 

This winter I'm planning on making a video about camping.

I've also written many pieces about the joys of winter and the skills and gear needed. There are links in this post.

Storm in the Cairngorms, October 9, 2020

Video on gear for winter hillwalking

About to start talking!

I've just uploaded a video of the gear I use for winter hillwalking. My first video like this. Took three attempts - frozen camera, inaudible audio, wind noise all problems. There's a weird colour change two-thirds of the way through that I can't get rid of or explain. I'll learn! Anyway, here's the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X6VrV-XOpg

Essential Gear For Winter Weather

Now that winter is well underway and cold days and even colder nights are the norm the contents of my pack have changed. On a winter day walk I always want to have enough gear that I could survive an unplanned night out. In summer with short hours of darkness and reasonably warm temperatures that doesn’t require much stuff. In winter it’s a different story. Nights are long and cold and can be very stormy.

Below are items I always carry regardless of the weather forecast or the conditions when I set off. Of course when there’s snow and ice on the hills I add ice axe and crampons and if the snow’s deep either skis or snowshoes and a snow shovel. (See here for my thoughts on ice axes, and here for skis and snowshoes).

My friend Mark well bundled up in a Cairngorms winter storm

Cold weather means cold hands and cold heads unless you have good gloves or mitts and warm hats. In summer I don’t carry gloves and often no hat either. If I do carry the latter it’s a Buff or a thin wool beanie just in case it’s a little chilly. This time of year I add a thicker hat and at least three pairs of gloves or mitts – thin liners, light fleece/softshell, waterproof shell mitts, thick insulated ones. Why so many? Well, to cope with different conditions to start with. Thin gloves are often adequate on their own if it’s not too cold or stormy. Light softshell or windproof fleece gloves come next and are the ones I wear most. In rain or snow waterproof shell mitts over either of these keep your hands dry and warm. And in really cold weather a thick pair of insulated gloves or mitts may be needed - I sometimes only wear these for short periods to warm up my hands but when I do I’m always glad I carried them. Also, having several pairs means if I lose a glove (I’ve had one blow away in the wind) or if a pair gets soaked I can still keep my hands warm.

In colder weather I wear thicker trousers and jacket and often wear my light fleece all day. That means I need more clothing to keep me warm when I stop so I always add an insulated jacket to my pack. This also means I have an extra layer for extreme cold. I very rarely actually walk in an insulated jacket but when I have it’s been really necessary.

Admiring the view on a cold day. The thick mat and insulated flask were very welcome.

I also carry a spare pair of socks in case the ones I’m wearing get wet and a pair of insulated trousers – I wore the last regularly during the filming of The Cairngorms In Winter as I was often standing round for long periods, usually they live in the pack just in case of extreme cold.

Long dark nights require light. Being cautious I carry a headlamp year round. In summer it’s often a very tiny minimalist one however as I know I’m unlikely to need it. Once the hours of darkness are longer than those of daylight I bring out a bigger headlamp with a more powerful beam. Every autumn and winter people are caught out by early darkness and have to be rescued as they don’t have a headlamp or torch. Having a decent one is important. I carry a spare too – it’s much easier to swap headlamps than batteries, though I do carry the latter as well.

I also carry a sitmat and a bivi/survival bag year round (I said I was cautious!). Again, though, these are usually minimal ones in summer – a thin small bit of foam and a plastic survival bag - and I do sometimes forget one or both of them. This time of year I carry a thicker, bigger foam pad – sometimes a full-length one - and a proper waterproof/breathable bivi bag plus a bothy bag in which I can sit up. I’ve never spent a night in the latter but I have used it as a lunch shelter a few times in storms. The warmth it provides is surprising, even when there’s only myself in it. Larger bothy bags for groups can get quite hot inside. 

Stinging spindrift sometimes makes goggles essential

For bright sunshine reflecting off the snow dark glasses are essential. These provide some protection against cold winds and blown snow but they’re not adequate in a blizzard, as I discovered many years ago when a descent took much longer than I thought because the snow kept blowing in behind my glasses and cutting my vision. Since then I’ve always carried snow goggles. Because these are usually worn in flat light I like ones with yellow or orange lenses as these help with visibility in these conditions.

A comfortable rest with a hot drink

 

Winter walking requires more food than in summer too both due to its strenuousness and the need to keep warm so I carry more, especially snack foods and trail mix that I can eat whilst walking. In a winter storm I don’t want to have to deal with sandwiches. If I have the latter they are sometimes only eaten when I get down. In really cold weather a hot drink can be really warming and reviving so I carry a thermos flask filled with spicy ginger cordial or, sometimes, a stove and packet soup or sachets of hot chocolate.

A version of this post appeared in The Great Outdoors many years ago.

Winter Gear Laid Out

Winter Hillwalking Gear

Back in September after I posted what turned out to be a popular post on the gear I use in the winter hills I was asked if I could post a photo of the gear. I haven't taken such a picture yet this year - I'll do so soon - but here's one from two years ago. With winter conditions on the hills now it's an appropriate time to post it.

From top left the items on the outside of the picture are insulated jacket, shell jacket, rucksack, ice axe, headwear, handwear, gaiters, winter trousers, fleece top. In the centre are boots, thick socks and snow shovel. On the foam pad from top left are insulated flask, crampons, smartphone, map,compass, first aid kit, headlamps, dark glasses, and snow goggles with a whistle in the centre. To the right of the mat are bothy bag and bivi bag.

Missing are trekking poles, insulated trousers/long johns, spare socks, and food. They'll be in the next photo!

The specific models are far less important than their function. Many equally suitable alternatives could be substituted for all of them. As I'm always testing gear I rarely go out with exactly the same equipment. You'll never see me on the hills with exactly this set of gear!

This is for a trip on foot. If the snow was continuous and deep I'd have skis and ski boots. If the snow was deep and discontinuous I'd have snowshoes.