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| Camp at the head of Scandale |
This has been a year for visiting the Lake District,
somewhere I hadn’t been for a decade or more not so long ago, and last week I
made my sixth visit of 2014. I was there to attend the TGO Awards in Kendal and
then the Kendal Mountain Festival as the BMC Ambassador for Hillwalking (you
can read my thoughts on the last in
this piece on Grough). In between these
events, which mostly involved talking with friends and acquaintances old and new, I found time to spend a night in the hills along with friends
Tony Hobbs and, for the first day only, David Lintern who had both been at the
TGO Awards (David’s account of his few days in the Lakes can be found
here,
with some kind – and amusing - words about me – thanks David!).
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| View down to Rydal Water from the slopes of Heron Pike |
After a visit to
The Apple Pie, a marvellous bakery and café
in Ambleside (thank you David for introducing me to their delicious pies), to
purchase lunch we set off round the Fairfield Horseshoe, a walk I hadn’t done
for at least a couple of decades, other than an attempt at the same time last
year that was quickly abandoned due to heavy rain, wind and thick mist. Having
companions made for interesting conversation and an enjoyable walk on what was
a dry but hazy day. By the time we reached Fairfield visibility had shrunk to
fifty metres or less and we overshot the summit cairn slightly before
remembering that we needed to backtrack a little and follow the cliff edge
round to Hart Crag to reach the other arm of the horseshoe. Strangely, despite
the years of absence and the lack of views, I could remember clearly that we
needed to do this.
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| Tony and David pause for a snack |
We started to leave the mist behind as we crossed Dove Crag
but, due to a rather late start for the time of year, daylight was now starting
to fade. Soon David left us to continue on down the ridge to Ambleside while
Tony and I turned aside and dropped down to the head of Scandale where we found
some good camp sites and made camp just as the last light vanished. The sky was
still cloudy and a stiff breeze was blowing but it looked as though we could be
comfortable here.
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| Tony keeping warm in camp |
Later in the evening the wind ceased and the sky cleared. A
heavy dew settled on my tent. The lack of noise from the wind had me looking
out. Stars were appearing in the blackness. I thought I’d settled in for the
night but the brilliant sky was best appreciated with a clear view all round so
I was soon back outside staring up at the great white slash of the Milky Way
and the constellation of Orion rising over the hills. Other than a faint glow on
the horizon from the lights of Ambleside there was no sign we weren’t in a
remote wilderness far from civilisation.
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| A chilly morning |
Sometime during the night the cloud returned and dawn came
dull and flat. It was still a marvellous place to be though, far removed from
the hot stuffy hotel rooms of Kendal. Eventually we had to depart and set off
over High Pike and Low Pike on rockier terrain than I remembered and down to
Ambleside. We reached the town just as the rain began. Later in the day after
Tony had dropped me in Kendal and was on his way back to Bristol I got soaked
walking to the hotel. I’d stayed dry in the hills but the wet streets of Kendal
were too much for me!