Wednesday, 20 August 2014

Review: Inov-8 Race Ultra shoes

The Race Ultra shoes - on Ben Macdui. All the pictures in the review were taken on the summit.

The last month I've been trying Inov-8's new Race Ultra shoes, hoping that they'd be a replacement for the Terrocs as these old favourites have been discontinued. My initial review of the shoes has just appeared on The Great Outdoors website here.

Tuesday, 19 August 2014

The Great Outdoors September issue: a sense of space, hiking boots, sandal review.

The vastness of the hills: view from Creag Meagaidh at dusk

The September issue of The Great Outdoors has just been published with a theme of ridge walks. My backpacking column is about the wonderful sense of space found in the hills, inspired by my recent camp on Creag Meagaidh. In the gear pages I review 18 pairs of  'three-season' boots (I think many of them are best suited to winter). I still have black toenails from some of these! My Teva Terra sandals test also appears. Elsewhere in gear Judy Armstrong reviews six windshirts, Emily Rodway talks to Gordon Fraser of Anatom Footwear about boots and boot fitting, and Daniel Neilson describes some of the new gear displayed at the annual OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen.

The centrepiece of the ridge walks theme is an account by Dougie Cunningham of a traverse of An Teallach with an overnight camp and a spectacular dawn. Vivienne Crows looks at some fine Lakeland ridges that rise from valley to summit while David Taylor describes seven classic ridge scrambles in Snowdonia.

Far away from the British hills Andrew Mazibrada has an exciting time in Bosnia and Herzegovina walking part of the new Via Dinarica long-distance trail which winds for over 1000 kilometres through all the countries of the Balkans. There are also suggestions for other lesser-known wild mountain areas in Europe including one I know well but with a name I'd not heard before - The Scandes. Unsurprisingly this means the Scandinavian Mountains including the highest summits of Norway, Sweden and Finland, all of which I've climbed in both summer and winter.

Many years ago I did a ropes course at an outdoor centre and found it a mixture of exhilaration and terror. In this issue Ed Byrne describes his experience on a 'Go Ape' course in Thetford Forest that sounds very similar.

I haven't been on Kinder Scout in the Peak District for many, many years and my memory is of deep peat groughs, dark bare boggy ground and confusing navigation. Carey Davies has been up much more recently and writes of 'a lush upland prairie, green and inviting .... a swaying sea of mosses and grasses' in his Mountain Magic column. This is due to much hard work by organisations seeking to restore the damaged moorlands of the area.

Whilst Carey Davies writes of an inspiring and optimistic project Roger Smith brings us down to earth in his Environment column with concerns about the spread of mobile phone masts in National Parks.

One of the joys of Jim Perrin's Hillwalkers' Library is discovering new books as well as nodding approvingly when Jim praises old favourites. W.G.Sebald's The Rings of Saturn is definitely one of the former. Although I've heard of the author (and I think there's an unread volume by him on a bookshelf somewhere in the house) I hadn't heard of this book nor, from the title, guessed it was based around a walk.


This issue also has information on The Great Outdoors Awards 2014. Nominations are open until September 25 - see www.tgomagazine.co.uk/awards.

Thursday, 7 August 2014

In Search of August Snow in the Cairngorms



Cairn Lochan (all photos taken August 5)

Wondering how the remnant snow from last winter had fared since my last visit in early June I went up into the Cairngorms to have a look. Usually at this time of year there’s so little snow left it’s not something I even think about. In fact I don’t think I’ve been on a snow watching trip in August before. As there has been much hot and sunny weather, interspersed with heavy rain, always good for washing away snow, I wasn’t expecting to find much.

Coire Cas
However the approach to the Cairngorm Plateau immediately revealed extensive snow patches on the headwall of Coire Cas. Generally this is bare long before now. If there was still snow here there were likely to be bigger drifts elsewhere. Looking over into Coire an t-Sneachda I could see one large snowfield on its headwall but the Goat Track was clear. It had been under snow back in June. 

Coire an t-Sneachda with the Goat Track clearly visible


On the Plateau the streams were full and running fast and much of the ground was damp. I wandered across to the rim of the Loch Avon basin. Again I could see big snowfields on the north-eastern slopes. 

View across the Loch Avon basin

Snow and Reindeer in Coire Domhain

Next came Coire Domhain and the biggest snowfield of the day,  really extensive and deep. Here I found a large herd of reindeer, some cooling off on the snow itself, some on the damp ground below the snowfield. Working my round to the head of the snowfield, making a large loop so I didn’t disturb the reindeer, I looked down the tunnel made by a stream running under the snow. I estimated the drift to be around three feet deep here.

Coire Domhain
Snowfield above the Feith Buidhe

One more snowfield came into view on the far side of the Feith Buidhe as I crossed the Plateau to Ben Macdui. From the rim of the summit I gazed across the Lairig Ghru to Cairn Toul, Sgor an Lochain Uaine and Braeriach. Often if there’s any snow visible at this time of year it’s high in the recesses of An Garbh Choire, the great bowl that separates these peaks. There were some snow patches visible. In other years I’d have been impressed at the size of these. This year I was surprised they weren’t bigger. 

View over the Lairig Ghru from Ben Macdui

Back across the Plateau I descended the west shoulder of Cairn Lochan and looked into Coire an Lochain. Here I’d found the most snowback in June, startling amounts in fact with one great steep sheet calving off icebergs into the lochan. Much of this snow has gone but there are still extensive patches left.

After all the hot weather I was expecting to see less snow than I did, much less. There really is an astonishing amount left for August. How much will remain in another month?

August Snow Survey

My snow observations are random and occasional. Iain Cameron is a real expert on late-lying snow and he is organising a survey for the seventh year running. It’ll be held on August 22 and 23 and you can read more here.http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/news/call-for-hillwalkers-to-survey-snow-patches/0011322/ You can also follow Iain and see some of his amazing photos on Twitter @theiaincameron.

Cairn Lochan

Saturday, 2 August 2014

The Pleasures of Camp Cooking


Outdoor cooking on the TGO Challenge


Some thoughts on camp cooking - first published in The Great Outdoors several years ago. I haven't changed my approach!
 
The cold rain lashes down. Fingers fumble with guylines and thrashing wet nylon. The sky is darkening as night approaches. Finally the tent is up and you can slip inside, out of the storm. The stove is set up in the porch. A click of a lighter, the hiss of gas and surprising heat rises from the little ring of flames. A pan of water is placed on the stove. While it heats big spoonfuls of chocolate drink powder are heaped into a mug. The anticipation of the warming drink to come is great but nothing like the reality when the sweet hot liquid slides down your throat and sends warmth surging through you. At last you can relax and start to enjoy the camp, the shelter from the rain and wind and the pleasure of just lying there listening to the spattering on the flysheet. While sipping the hot chocolate you look through the food bag. Soup first or straight to the main meal? Soup for more warmth and liquids, you decide. Mushroom or tomato? The first tonight. Then the main meal. Pasta again, with broccoli and cheese this time. Again just thinking of the food is enjoyable. After eating you know you will feel tired and soon fall asleep, warm and comfortable, which is also a pleasant thought.

Warm and dry in the shelter on a rainy day
 
On cold wet nights like that hot food and drink, prepared under cover, is one of the great joys of wild camping. I love the way energy and warmth are restored by the simple food I have carried and cooked. There’s nothing more deeply pleasurable than taking the first mouthfuls of hot soup after a long day in the wilds as a storm batters the tent. I have spent many nights relishing the rituals of setting up the stove, arranging my few kitchen items and sorting through my supplies. Watching the stove flame flicker and hearing the bubbling of the water as it comes to a boil is always a welcome activity. As well as the immediate pleasure of eating and drinking I know that the energy from the hot food and liquid will help keep me warm during the cold night to come. Of course cold food could provide the same energy but there’s not the same immediate warming or the positive psychological effect of a hot meal.

Camp cooking is such an important part of backpacking for me that even when the weather is warm and sunny I still make hot drinks and prepare hot meals. It wouldn’t feel like a real camp without them. There isn’t the same urgent desire for hot sustenance that occurs in the cold and wet but the enjoyment is still there.

Perhaps the most pleasurable outdoor meal is breakfast, that reviving repast that helps you wake and which is eaten with the exciting thoughts of a day in the wilds ahead. This is especially so when the weather is dry and the sky clear. Waking on a frosty morning fills me with joy as I look out on the crisp white ground and the brightening sky. Rather than dash off into the new day I like to welcome the dawn slowly, over a hot mug of coffee and a bowl of muesli porridge. Lying in my sleeping bag while I eat breakfast and watch the sun slowly creep down the hillsides towards my camp is a truly luxurious experience.

Everything needed for dinner
 
Whilst the practice of setting up the kitchen, boiling water and preparing meals and drinks is central to camping for me this doesn’t mean complicated recipes or meals that take ages to cook. Far from it. The opposite is in fact true. I like simple meals that are quick to prepare. Dehydrated and freeze-dried foods make up the bulk of my outdoor diet and my food bag is full of foil packets and plastic bags full of dusty dry powders. On a scale running from gourmet foodie to survival eater I am close to the latter. This doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy the food though. A mug of instant soup with a few herbs and spices and a sprinkle of cheese added tastes delicious in the wilds, as does cheese and macaroni out of a packet or a curry made from couscous, dried vegetables, soya mince and curry powder. At home I would find such fare rather unappetising but I learnt long ago that trying backpacking meals at home, as if often advised, was a waste of time. They have to be tried in the field after a day on the hill to be really appreciated. I can go long periods on dried food without becoming fed up of it though I must admit that sometimes when the prospect of fresh food approaches it can suddenly seem unattractive. The longest I’ve subsisted on dried rations is 23 days, which I’ve done twice, and on both occasions the last few days were spent drooling over the thought of eggs, orange juice, pizza and freshly baked bread. This was particularly so on the Pacific Crest Trail when the going through the snow-bound High Sierra was very tough, my energy output great and the calorie content of my food inadequate. I lost a couple of stone during those three weeks that even five or six restaurant meals in two days didn’t replace. Yet now it is the meals cooked over my little petrol stove at spectacular camps high in the mountains that I remember rather than the undoubtedly more sumptuous restaurant dinners.

View from the tent at a camp in the High Sierra on the Pacific Crest Trail
 
I think much of the delight in camp cooking is a primitive enjoyment of being comfortable and warm outdoors with just the aid of thin shelter and a small stove. Being able to make hot food and drink is a way of knowing that you can cope and live in the wilds - even when you have brought everything with you. This sense is enhanced if you’ve ever spent much time in the wilds with dwindling supplies, as I did during my walk the length of the Canadian Rockies when I became somewhat unsure of where I was for over a week during which I had much arduous cross country walking in dense forest and deep canyons. For several days I subsisted on a few crackers, instant cup-a-soups, half cups of coffee and a few bits of dried fruit. When I eventually came out of the wilderness and reached a roadside campground the fizzy cola drink other campers gave me tasted like nectar. Sitting in the tent with a full belly I often remember those days and vow never to repeat them.

Dinner!

Friday, 1 August 2014

Teva Terra Fi 4 Sandals Review The Great Outdoors



On my recent wild camping trip to Creag Meagaidh I wore Teva Terra Fi 4 sandals. You can see them above at my camp near the summit. I've now reviewed the sandals for The Great Outdoors. You can read my thoughts here.