 |
| View west from the descent |
The last day of the year. After a week of rain, clouds and hidden hills, a frost and sunshine. A New Year's Eve walk. Wanting time to think and reflect a familiar favourite seemed wise. Meall a'Bhuachaille beckoned.
 |
| Frost and sun and a returning forest |
Setting out I took little footpaths through the woods rather than the main track. After a very wet year the ground was sodden, the paths often deep in water, the forest floor soft and muddy, though the surface was crisp with frost. I soon retreated and joined the masses on the path from Glenmore to Ryvoan Bothy. Dogs, bicycles, children, buggies, families - the woods were alive with people, all happy, smiling, enjoying the beauty of nature. It was good to see.
 |
| Lochan Uaine |
A wind rippled the surface of Lochan Uaine but in the woods it was still, the frosty air only felt when I paused. Looking up the slopes on either side I relished the regenerating forest. For thirty years I've watched the trees climb the slopes, returning the forest to its rightful place. It's one of the most heartening sights I know. I remember when there was a just a scattering of tiny saplings dotting the moorland above the old woods. Now it's a young forest.
 |
| Ryvoan |
The bothy seemed the main destination, with many people stopping outside to eat, drink, chat and play. Once I set off up Meall a'Bhuachaille the numbers fell away. For most of the ascent I was alone. Across the gash of the Ryvoan Pass, Lochan Uaine shining far below, the brown Cairngorms rose, bereft of snow.
 |
| Cairn Gorm across the Ryvoan Pass |
There were three others on the summit, sheltering from the now strong and bitter wind. Out to the west the sun was sinking, the sky turning gold and orange. I didn't linger, soon setting off down to escape the wind. My descent was slow though, due to the spectacular sunset that slowly developed in front of me.
 |
| Loch Morlich |
Once the sun dropped below the Sgorans ridge the western sky became a sheet of bright colour, the distant hills etched sharp.
 |
| After sunset |
I was walking in shadow, the magical world of gold and orange out of reach, always ahead, never touched. But that didn't matter. The beauty was all. Entranced I descended into the dark woods. Through the silhouettes of the trees the brilliant sky shone. A crescent moon hunger above Cairn Gorm. The world felt renewed. I felt renewed, optimistic, hopeful. A new time is beginning.
One aspect of backpacking and long-distance walking that hasn't changed is an interest in gear. I'd forgotten I also sent back reports on how my gear was performing until I looked through old copies of Footloose for this piece. From the piece to the left I see that my Rohan clothing, Svea 123 stove, Field & Trek sleeping bag, Therm-A-Rest mat, huge 125-litre Karrimor pack and New Balance shoes were all doing well. Not so my Wintergear tent whose poles were breaking - perhaps after the 70mph winds I mention! - or my Meindl boots, whose soles were coming off. I see too that I was very impressed with a Rock & Run Hipsac. Using a front pack like this has only recently come back into favour. Maybe I was ahead of my time!
