Saturday, 19 July 2014

The Great Outdoors August Issue: Lake District Backpacking, Wild Camping, Backpacking With A Small Pack, Shorts, Freet Shoes

Wild camping in the Lake District

The August issue of The Great Outdoors has just appeared. Appropriately, given the current hot weather, my main contribution to the gear pages is a review of 16 pairs of shorts. I also review some interesting 'minimal drop' shoes, the Freet Mudgrip. Elsewhere in the gear pages Daniel Neilson reviews 16 25-35 litre packs, the Barefoot Shepherdess Alison O'Neill describes her favourite gear, and James Reader visits Osprey Europe and talks to founder Mike Pfotenhauer.

My backpacking column is about the trip I made last month to work on the Backpacking In The Lake District film with Terry Abraham (in the blue duvet jacket in the picture above). In the Hill Skills sections I've given some tips for novice backpackers and for backpacking with a small pack. There's also a scattering of my photos throughout the magazine, including a frontispiece taken at the same time as the picture above and a recent one of noctilucent clouds that illustrates Carey Davies' column, which considers these clouds and the whole concept of 'nature's wonderful strangeness'.

Elsewhere in this issue Carey Davies pops up again describing a backpacking trip in Knoydart, Tim Gent goes backpacking on Dartmoor and Paul Beasley revisits the Lake District after a 23 year absence. Much further afield Suzy Bennett walks the Cinque Terre path in Italy. Back in Britain Roger Smith bemoans the weakness of protection for our finest landscapes and habitats and suggests there should be 'no major development' zones for all designated areas. Hear, hear! In his Hillwalkers' Library Jim Perrin recommends a novel I have to admit never having heard of before, Manda Scott's Stronger Than Death. This climbing whodunit sounds excellent and has been added to my reading list. Jim also reviews Tristan Gooley's The Walker's Guide to Outdoor Clues & Signs, a book I am currently reading and will review myself eventually.

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Thoughts on Stealth Camping


Out of sight on the Annandale Way


Having been asked a few times recently about stealth camping and wild camping I thought I'd post this piece from a few years ago that originally appeared in The Great Outdoors.

Stealth camping, as the name suggests, is camping where you are unlikely to be seen. I’ve practised this since I began backpacking, long before I heard the term itself. I like it though; it suggests quietness and a lack of disturbance. It came to mind frequently a few years ago when I chose to stealth camp a few times on the Southern Upland Way  and on Annandale Way. Scotland’s enlightened access legislation, which gives a right to camp wild, meant I didn’t have to hide my camps but as both paths run through farmland and lowland woods at times I preferred to be out of sight of paths, roads and farms so I could enjoy camping in peace with little risk that anyone would disturb me or even know I was there. South of the border in England stealth camping is rather more of a necessity in many areas as wild camping isn’t a legal right. High in the hills it’s usually accepted but in many lowland areas it’s wise to be out of sight. Long ago I learnt much about stealth camping on a Land’s End to John O’Groats walk, including making camp late and leaving early. At the same time I also found that passing by a prospective site because I wanted to walk a few more miles could mean difficulties in finding anywhere to camp so sometimes I stopped early.

A stealth camp is one where you are unlikely to be seen by others because you are out of sight of roads, buildings, footpaths, bothies and popular wild sites. If there are clear signs that people camp regularly then it’s not a stealth camp site. Along most long distance paths there are popular wild sites that are used almost every night in the summer. There are similar sites in popular walking areas – Styhead Tarn in the Lake District and Loch Etchachan in the Cairngorms for example. Yet by only venturing a short distance it’s usually possible to camp in solitude in these areas, out of view of other tents. Finding a stealth site is a combination of studying the map and studying the terrain. In lowland areas woods are excellent for stealth camps. Just wander away from the path and find a flat area. This doesn’t necessarily mean being surrounded by trees with no views either. Just being out of sight of likely human presence is often enough. Towards the end of one of my TGO Challenge routes, as the eastern Highlands decline from moorland to farmland, there is a spot beside a fine rushing river with a lovely view back up the glen to the hills that is hidden from the nearby road by a steep wooded bank. I’ve camped there four times and have never seen another person. (And no, I’m not going to tell you where it is!). In open hill country stealth camping can be more difficult. I look for wrinkles and dips in the terrain in which tent can be pitched that can’t be seen except from close by or maybe a distant hillside. Sometimes such spots can lie surprisingly close to footpaths.

A stealth camp on the TGO Challenge. Despite the open view it was hidden from a nearby road and houses.
 
In my view the main reason for stealth camping isn’t to hide from other people though (I’m not that anti-social!) but to be in closer contact with nature. I’m out in the wilds to experience the landscape, the wild life, the trees, the flowers and the whole magnificent natural world and I want that to be part of the camping as well as the walking. In my ideal camp I can sit and watch birds and clouds and study the details of vegetation and rocks. I don’t want the wildlife to be disturbed by people walking by, as can happen when camping near a footpath, or by other people talking, as can happen at popular wild sites. I don’t want to look at other tents either or hear vehicles on a road or tractors in a field. On this theme when looking for a stealth camp if I see another tent I give it a wide berth and camp well away and out of sight, assuming those campers are also seeking solitude. Not everyone does this. Once in a big corrie I deliberately went well away from the path and the used camp sites beside the lochan and camped out of sight behind some boulders. The next morning I went for a stroll up a nearby hill. When I returned to pack up camp there was another tent only fifty feet or so away from mine. In all that vast area, which could have held a dozen or more tents all hidden from each other, they had chosen to camp next to the only other tent there. I packed up and left, as intended, hoping that the other campers didn’t think I’d taken offence and moved because of them. Mind you, if I’d been staying a second night I might have moved camp!

Stealth sites are usually undisturbed and pristine. They don’t look like camp sites and ideally there is nothing human made visible. They certainly don’t have rings of stones, flattened vegetation, bare patches of earth, stone windbreak walls or camp fire scars. Sites with these are the opposite of stealth ones, showing over-use. I try and pass them by or, if I do use one, restore it a little by breaking up stone rings and demolishing structures. When leaving a stealth site it should look as though no-one has ever camped there. Perhaps there’s some flattened grass, but this will quickly recover if it was used for one night only. The idea is that if someone else does camp in that area they probably won’t choose exactly the same spot so a new visible site doesn’t appear. For that reason stealth camps should be for one night only and new paths shouldn’t be trampled from the nearest footpath or to the nearest water (something more likely with groups). Indeed, stealth camps may not be near water at all. I’ve often carried enough water for camp for the last hour or two to a fine but waterless site. Such places will never become popular as most people prefer to camp within a short distance of water. I carried water for camp twice on the Annandale Way and each time found a lovely, quiet and relaxing woodland site.

Quiet, hidden site on the Annandale Way
 
No special equipment is required for stealth camping but a dull green or brown-coloured tent is useful, especially when camping in open country. There’s nothing like vivid red or orange nylon for attracting the eye. That said, I used a quite bright gold-coloured tent on the Pacific Northwest Trail last summer and had several stealth camps in lowland and logging areas simple by heading off into dense forest and thick undergrowth. Despite the colour of the tent anyone would have had to be fairly close to spot it.

I think stealth camping is in fact the natural form of backpacking camping. It’s what wild camping should be.

Monday, 14 July 2014

I'll be at the Harris Mountain Festival in September

On the Clisham Horseshoe

This September I'll be on the isle of Harris for the Harris Mountain Festival where I'll be introducing The Cairngorms In Winter film and answering questions afterwards on September 17th and then leading a walk over the Clisham Horseshoe on the 18th.

The whole Festival runs from September 13th to 20th. There are many different events including walks, a hill race, a raft race, kayaking, hill skills training, talks, and photo workshops with natural history photographer Laurie Campbell. The full programme isn't finalised yet so it's not on the Festival web site. It should appear soon.

Harris is a beautiful island with a magnificent coastline and dramatic mountains. This will be my third visit and I'm delighted to be going back. I gave a talk at the Festival last year but was unable to spend long on Harris (I describe the trip here). I hope to stay longer this year.

Saturday, 12 July 2014

Finished! My Pacific Crest Trail Book.

On the Pacific Crest Trail in the High Sierra, May 1982

I've finally finished writing Rattlesnakes and Bald Eagles, the story of my Pacific Crest Trail walk, and sent it to the publisher at Sandstone Press. I hope he likes it!

Although the writing is over producing the book isn't. My next task will be to caption the photos that will appear in the book (all scans from Kodachrome 64 slides) and allocate them page numbers so they appear in the right place. Then there'll be the final check of the edited manuscript. And all being well the book will be published in October.

Friday, 11 July 2014

Ospreys & Otters: A Visit to Loch Garten

Loch Garten

Out on the loch beyond the water lilies a goldeneye duck and duckling floated in the sunshine below the cloud-dappled blue sky. A peaceful scene. The only sound the gentle ripple of water on the shore. Abruptly a duck, a mallard, skittered out of the reeds and across the water, wings flapping, legs thrashing wildly, quacking loudly. Just behind it a fluffy duckling paddled frantically, trying to keep up. Something dark surged in the water behind the duckling. A rounded head emerged briefly then a curving body slicing through the water. An otter. There was flurry in the water. Otter and duckling vanished. The duck continued alone. Further out the goldeneyes drifted serenely. Within seconds the scene was calm again, the brief life-and-death drama over.

Loch Garten

This was the one moment of excitement on an otherwise tranquil wander beside beautiful Loch Garten and through the pinewoods of Abernethy Forest on a lovely sunny day. Everything glowed with warmth and life. White water lilies spread round the edges of the loch, more than I’ve ever seen here before. The first blaeberries were appearing in the woods. Nature at its most relaxed and welcoming. Then there was that sudden flash of violence, the sudden ending of a duckling’s brief existence. A reminder of the reality of how much of nature works.

Live video of the osprey nest in the visitor centre.

Earlier we had visited the RSPB’s Loch Garten Osprey Centre not far from the loch, our first visit of the year and rather later than usual. The three young ospreys were almost ready to fly, standing on the edge of the nest and flapping their wings. Their mother perched on a nearby tree, watching.  Using the powerful centre telescopes we were able to watch them and marvel at their grace and power. There are also live videos in the centre that show them closely. Like the otter these are hunters as the piercing eyes and hooked bills showed. Soon they will leave the nest and then Scotland, heading south to West Africa for the winter. Seeing the ospreys and reflecting again on their return to the Highlands and the work that went into protecting them is always inspiring and gives hope for the future of wildness and nature.

Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Noctilucent Clouds


Five hours after seeing the rainbow described in my last post I was outside watching the sky again, this time to look at the strange phenomena of noctilucent clouds. Now whilst I do sometimes wander out during the night to observe the sky this was not a random chance. I was alerted to the clouds by a Tweet from Wendy @benjiandblossom with an impressive picture of noctilucent clouds over Inverness-shire. That's not far away so I was soon outside to an amazing sight. The northern sky was a mass of bright white swirls and streaks that rose from the horizon before fading into the dark blue of the night sky.

Although I'd heard of noctilucent clouds before I had to check just what they are. It turns out not that much is known about them. The key factor though is that they are far higher in the sky than other clouds, around 80 kilometres up, which means that in northern latitudes in summer the hidden sun lights them from below. Of course the night isn't dark for long at this time of year. I started watching the clouds at 1.30 a.m. By 2.30 they were fading as the sky began to lighten. In the photograph you can just see a few stars. It really was dark and I needed a headlamp to move about safely.

The clouds are mysterious and strange. The name is wonderful. Noctilucent just rolls beautifully round the mouth.

Photography note. I used a tripod of course. Camera and lens were again the Sony NEX 7 with 16-50mm lens at 16mm. Details of this image: 1 second at f8, ISO 800.

Monday, 7 July 2014

Rainbow at Dusk after a Stormy Day


Yesterday was dark and gloomy, with low clouds and heavy showers. The world was dark grey. Then just before it set the sun shone out below the clouds, lighting the trees and fields. The sudden sensation of colour was astonishing. The world lit up. At first there was no rainbow but I suspected one would come and hurried outside to watch. And come it did, a perfect bow curving over the trees. In fact it was a double rainbow - I could just see a second one.

Rain was still falling - streaks of it can be seen on some of my photographs. Knowing the rainbow probably wouldn't last long as I'd just grabbed my camera - Sony NEX 7 with 16-50 zoom lens - and headed out the door. I wanted to be far enough away from the woods to see the whole rainbow. Out in a meadow I found a near perfect scene with long dark shadows from trees behind me and a solitary birch almost under the centre of the rainbow that caught the sunlight beautifully. I could have done without the power line pole but there was no way to block it and still have a good composition (some photographers would remove it in post-processing but I want my photos to show what I actually saw).

To the right of the top photo a herd of cows can just be seen. I zoomed in on these and took the following picture.



For those interested in the technical details all the photos were taken at 1/125 at F8, ISO 200. Only the focal length of the lens was changed. I took raw files and processed them in Lightroom.