Monday 31 July 2017
Signs & Notices along the Scottish Watershed
Sorting through the photos of my Scottish Watershed walk for a selection for my book on the trip I noticed that I'd taken quite a few of signs and notices along the way that had caught my attention, some of them informative, some quirky, some puzzling. Here's a selection.
Wednesday 26 July 2017
Why Trekking Poles?
My evidence for the benefits of trekking poles with regard to muscle soreness is personal and anecdotal of course. Naturally, trekking pole companies make the same claims, sometimes quite colourfully as when Brasher gave the weight saved on your legs in numbers of elephants. There was little actual research to back up the claims however and what there was came from lab studies of people on treadmills and not from actual outdoor use.
However a study at Northumbria University provided more concrete
evidence that poles can significantly reduce soreness after a hill walk and
also help maintain muscle function. This wasn’t an indoor study or just a brief
walk up a slope. The 37 men and women in the study climbed Snowdon.
They were split into two groups of equal fitness. One group didn’t use poles;
the other group did and were taught how to use them. To try and cut out
variables that could have affected the study the walkers ate the same meal the
evening before the walk, had the same breakfast, carried daypacks of the same
weight and took the same scheduled rest stops. During the hike the heart rates
of the walkers were recorded, along with how they perceived their exertion
rates. After the hike various tests were used to assess muscle damage and function.
These tests were repeated at 24, 48 and 72 hour intervals. The results were in
accord with my personal experience. The pole users had far less muscle soreness
and a reduced loss of strength. They recovered more quickly too. Unsurprisingly
the pole users felt less sore than the non-pole users. Levels of an enzyme that
indicates muscle damage were found to be much higher in the non-pole group than
before the walk but almost the same in the pole users, showing that any muscle
damage was minimal.
This is only one study but it does confirm the personal
findings of me and many other pole users. Trekking poles really are good for
your muscles and the effects are noticeable after as well as during a walk.
It’s nice not to wake with aching legs the morning after a walk. This is especially
significant on multi-day walks when you want to enjoy walking every day and not
have to take days off while your muscles recover. Also, soreness and strained
muscles can make injury more likely so using poles can reduce the chances of
hurting yourself while walking. Poles can also prevent injuries by preventing
slips and falls. I have descended slopes in dense vegetation or after dark when
my poles often prevented me tumbling over. And if you do suffer a leg injury
poles can be used as supports while you limp along. I have walked out to the
road with someone with a sore ankle who found trekking poles enabled them to
hike out without needing help from anyone else.
Just having trekking poles doesn’t mean you’ll instantly
gain all the benefits though. You need to use them effectively. I’ve seen too
many pole users waving them around pointlessly or tapping the ground
ineffectively. Poles need to be held correctly and placed where they will
provide support and propulsion. Handles don’t need to be gripped tightly, which
just results in sore fingers and wrists. With most poles the straps take the
weight and support your hands (the exceptions are Pacerpoles which have shaped
handles that can be held loosely without need of straps). To use a strap like
this you put your hand up through the strap from below so the strap runs
between thumb and fingers and over the back of your hand. With the straps like
this you can swing the poles back and forth without holding them firmly as the
straps makes them secure.
To gain the most from poles the force applied to them should
propel you forwards not push you sideways or impede walking by pushing you
backwards. Yet all too often I see walkers place poles off to the side or a
long way in front with the pole handle angled back towards the user. The pole
tip should be placed in front of you so it is closer than the handle. Your arm
should go straight out in front and not to the side or across your body. A full
reach isn’t needed though as this can make your arms ache. Keeping your arm
slightly bent and fairly relaxed is far more comfortable. You then push down on
the pole so it helps propel you forwards and walk past it, letting it swing
behind you as you bring the other pole forwards. The idea is to get a rhythm
going that is easy to keep up which feels relaxed.
Pole length matters too. Adjustable poles are adjustable for
a reason. Many people use too long poles and have to lift their arms high each
time they swing the pole, which can be tiring. On flat and gently sloping
terrain you should be able to hold the pole pointing straight down with the tip
touching the ground with your arm bent at right angles at the elbow. On steep
slopes this can be too long, again forcing you to lift your arms high, which
can make you lean back, putting you out of balance. Shorter poles are needed. On
short ascents you can grasp the poles lower down. Some poles have foam or
rubber round the shafts for this purpose. On long ascents it’s better to adjust
the pole length so you can still use the straps and handles. On descents
lengthening poles stops you leaning forward, which again can affect balance. If
the descent is only short placing your hand over the top of the handle provides
a little more length. On long descents lengthening the poles is better, again
so you can use the straps and handles. On traverses you may want a short pole
in the uphill hand and a long pole in the downhill one. Here gripping the pole
lower down to shorten it and putting your hand over the handle are best unless
it’s a very long traverse and you won’t be changing direction.
When trekking poles first appeared they were disliked,
sometimes vehemently, by many walkers. (One reader objected to poles appearing
on the cover of TGO, saying that showed the editors must be in the pay of the
pole makers!). People seemed to feel that using them meant you were infirm or
old. That attitude is less prevalent now, though it still appears every so
often. My own view is the opposite. I think poles help prevent you becoming
infirm. And while they can’t stop you getting older, they can mean that your
legs are less likely to feel the effects of ageing so rapidly. Many people, as
I did, start using poles because they have growing problems with sore knees or
ankle or back. I think it’s better to start using them before you have any of
these problems. That way you may never suffer them at all.
This piece first appeared in The Great Outdoors quite a few years ago. I've edited it a little.
Monday 24 July 2017
Thirty years ago my first book was published
The cover shows Scott Steiner in Halfmoon Park in the Scapegoat Wilderness on the Continental Divide Trail |
Back in the distant pre-Internet world of 1987 when print was the only place you could read anything my first book was published. The Great Backpacking Adventure was part of a series from long-gone imprint Oxford Illustrated Press whose editor, Jane Marshall, approached me to write the backpacking volume. I remember she said I'd been recommended. Who by I can't now recollect but whoever it was many thanks! At that point in my writing life I'd penned quite a few magazine articles and was editor of Footloose magazine (also long-gone) but had failed to find a publisher for any of my book ideas. I wasn't going to turn down an invitation.
That first book also brought about my introduction to computers. Up to that point I'd typed features, usually with many Tippex corrections, on a battered old second-hand typewriter. The contract for the book said I had to supply two copies of clean typescript. I knew that there was no way my minimal typing skills could produce a clean manuscript 80,000 words long. A bit of research - talking to other writers in person and on the phone, visiting electronics stores, looking at the small ads in writers' magazines - showed that paying a copy typist, buying an electronic typewriter, and buying one of these new-fangled personal computers would cost about the same. Thinking that computers would be the way forward I chose that option and was soon the proud (and confused) owner of an Amstrad PCW 8256. This had 256kb of RAM (that's not a misprint!) and a floppy disk drive. The word processing software was appropriately called Locoscript. The printer was a dot matrix one, very slow and prone to jamming. The Amstrad was sufficient though and I wrote my first two books on it.
Pictures from long ago Pyrenean trips |
The book had eight pages of colour photos in the centre, all taken from transparency film. The eight walks described ranged from the Pennine Way to the Continental Divide Trail and were all written from my trail journals, which I started keeping long before I thought I'd be writing articles let alone books. I was glad I'd done so as I couldn't have written the book without them.
The Great Backpacking Adventure has long been out of print so anyone wanting to read it needs to find a second-hand copy. Looking back I can see that it sums up my first decade of long-distance walking as well as being the start of a whole series of books - I little thought at the time that thirty years later I'd be writing my twenty-sixth. Reading the Postcript for the first time in many, many years I see that I correctly predicted my life to come, writing that 'my wilderness treks are not one-off 'dreams of a lifetime' but a lifetime's occupation'. How true that has turned out to be.
Sunday 23 July 2017
Summer at Findhorn
Findhorn Bay |
Sometimes the sea attracts. With a promise of sunshine and thoughts of the freshness of sea air and the spaciousness of a seascape we headed for Findhorn to walk along the beach and round to the bay.
The ebbing tide |
The tide had just turned as we arrived and the shingle was two-tone - dark with wetness below the tide line, light and sundried above. The sea was tri-coloured - brown where it ran thinly over the stones, then turquoise, then deep blue. Still sinking down the steeper part of the beach it pounded the pebbles with big waves. Soon it would quieten as it reached the flatter shore before quickly running into the distance, leaving vast expanses of wet sand on which gulls and waders would prospect for food. As sand banks far out in the water started to surface seals appeared, clambering out of the waves to bask in the sunshine.
Culbin Forest reaches the sea |
At the narrow inlet where Findhorn Bay pours out into the North Sea the water was racing and surging, rushing fast towards the freedom of the vast ocean. Across the deep channel the edge of dark Culbin Forest rose along the top of steep dunes, their slopes scattered with fallen trees, brought down by the sea eating into the sand.
A tour boat sped past, fresh from seal watching. Soon Findhorn village came into view and a mass of boats and people around the marina. Here the fresh tide line was green and wet with just above it the last higher one, now dry and dusty. Ephemeral parallel lines, soon to be washed away.
The Captain's Table cafe at Findhorn Marina provided welcome refreshments before we crossed the flower-strewn dunes back to the beach.
Saturday 22 July 2017
The Great Outdoors August Issue: Big Packs, Stoves, Waferlite down jacket
In the latest issue of The Great Outdoors I review 11 60+ litre packs and 5 stoves, plus the PHD Waferlite down jacket. Also in the gear pages Judy Armstrong looks at 3 cook sets and TGO Challenge co-ordinators Sue Oxley and Ali Ogden and some friends try 20 backpacking dinners.
There's some great backpacking trips in this issue. Will Renwick traverses the Welsh mountains on the Cambrian Way, Alex Roddie has an adventure in the Pyrenees, and Daniel Neilson explores the Borrowdale fells in the footsteps of the fascinating Lakeland 'Professor of Adventure' Millican Dalton.
Away from backpacking and the mountains Stefan Durkatz finds some interesting walks in South East England. Back in the hills David Gray describes the splendid Ring of Steall above Glen Nevis and Jim Perrin remembers Shutlingsloe in Cheshire.
Also in this issue Roger Smith looks at the variety of conservation schemes currently underway in places as far apart as Beinn a'Ghlo in the Scottish Highlands and Knepp in West Sussex, there's useful information and advice on walking with a dog, and ten Wild Walks everywhere from Exmoor to the North-West Highlands.
Wednesday 19 July 2017
Summer Heat in the Cairngorms
The Feith Buidhe and Lochan Buidhe on the Cairngorm Plateau |
The last two days have been hot and sunny in the Cairngorms, a wonderful change from the generally dull and cool weather of the last six weeks or so. On the 17th two of us went across the Cairngorm Plateau to Ben Macdui under a rich blue sky with splendidly clear views all around. There was a fairly strong wind that meant it didn't feel too hot and which, I guess, helped keep the air so clear.
Coire Domhain, Carn Etchachan & Derry Cairngorm |
Whilst the higher ground was dry and crunchy underfoot the corries looked wet and all the streams were running strongly. We saw no snow apart from a few small patches high up in An Garbh Coire across the Lairig Ghru. I can't remember when there was so little snow left at this time of year.
Cairn Toul & Sgor an Lochain Uaine |
There were snow buntings around the cairn at the top of the Fiacaill a'Choire Chais and on the summit of Ben Macdui waiting for any crumbs we dropped, the males handsome in their black and white summer plumage. A ptarmigan scuttled low across the rocks, probably trying to lead us away from her chicks though we didn't see any. A young wheatear bobbed from rock to rock beside the path, its dappled brown plumage good camouflage but its white rump quite distinctive. The grasses were bright green and there were red and yellow splashes of moss in the damp areas. A bumblebee fumbled across the stones, blown up by the wind we assumed. Summer on the Cairngorm Plateau. Short-lived but glorious while it lasts. On a day like this it was hard to remember the arctic feel of winter or even the rainswept greyness of recent weeks. For today it was benign and friendly, basking in summer perfection.
Looking across the Plateau to Ben Macdui with Lochan Buidhe on the left and the headwaters of the March Burn on the right and the path crossing the narrow low watershed between the two |
We met maybe a dozen or so other walkers, fewer than expected on such a fine day. The only camp we saw was in Coire an Lochain where three people were swimming in the lochan, which made my companion, a keen wild swimmer, jealous as we had no time to descend into the corrie.
Miadan Creag an Leth-choin & Cairn Lochan |
Monday 17 July 2017
Favourite Outdoor Gear
Tilley Hat, Paramo Katmai shirt & Pacerpoles on my Yosemite Valley to Death Valley walk last autumn |
Looking through old
files recently I came across this piece I wrote for The Great Outdoors in 2010.
Back then I choose eight pieces of gear as my absolute favourites, based on
years of usage. Surprisingly, seven years later I’d still pick all bar one of
them, the GoLite Pinnacle, which isn’t available anymore but for which there
are now alternatives I prefer, such as the Mountain Laurel Designs Exodus. The
Inov8 Terroc shoes are also no longer around either, sadly as I haven’t yet
found an alternative I’m really happy with.
Do I still use these items regularly? Yes. Good design lasts. Would I add anything
to the list? Yes, the Mountain Laurel Designs Trailstar and the Paramo Katmai shirt. Do I still use these
items regularly? Yes. Good design lasts.
Having tested hundreds and hundreds of items gear over the
years I’ve had a unique opportunity to find out which ones I really like. These
often creep up on me slowly. After a test is complete I find that I keep
selecting one of the items for trip after trip until I realise it has become a
real favourite. With other gear I know immediately that it’s something special
so I’m not surprised when it becomes a favourite.
Favourite items can be surpassed by newer ones in terms of
weight or performance of course but sentiment keeps them as favourites even if
I don’t use them as much as previously. Memories are important and gear that
has been on many trips collects them. I can look at a hat or a stove on a shelf
and be transported back to a spectacular camp site or a wonderful day on the
trail. One of these items that now mainly serves as a decoration is my old
Optimus Svea 123 petrol stove. Back in the 1980s I used this little stove on
the Pacific Crest and Continental Divide Trails, the longest walks I have
undertaken, and just looking at it takes me back to those marvellous wilderness
adventures. There are many lighter weight and more efficient stoves now though
and I haven’t used the Svea for over a decade. Maybe I’ll take it out for a
nostalgic weekend soon.
In some cases it’s groups of products rather than specific
items that are favourites. To be fair to the ones that fall into this category
here they are: Paramo (waterproofs), Rab (sleeping bags, insulated jackets,
waterproofs), TarpTent (tents), Western Mountaineering (sleeping bags, down
clothing), Mountain Equipment (down sleeping bags, down clothing, waterproofs),
PHD (down sleeping bags, down clothing), Berghaus (clothing), Therm-A-Rest
(mattresses), Exped (mattresses), MSR (stoves), Optimus (stoves), Primus
(stoves, cookware), Montane (waterproofs, trousers), Icebreaker (wool clothing),
Teko (wool socks), Smartwool (wool clothing), Superfeet (footbeds), Patagonia
(clothing), Terra Nova (tents), Lightwave (packs, tents), Mountain Laurel
Designs (tarps, tents, packs), Granite Gear (packs), Petzl (headlamps), Silva
(compasses), ViewRanger (GPS mapping). All these companies make products I have
enjoyed using and will continue using.
Here, though, are my absolute favourites, gear that I have
used again and again and found near perfect.
Hilleberg Akto
Hilleberg Akto in the NW Highlands |
I have to start with the Akto, in which I’ve camped on
hundreds of nights including my continuous round of the Munros and Tops and
several TGO Challenges. For me this single hoop tent has been just about ideal.
It’s strong, durable and lightweight with enough room inside for gear storage
and cooking. I can sit out a storm in it without feeling claustrophobic. I also
know it so well that I can pitch it in a few minutes without much thought or
effort, which is useful when tired after a long day. Since the Akto first
appeared over twenty years ago lighter weight tents based on the same design
have appeared. Some of these are very good but I doubt any will prove as
durable as the Akto. I still think that if you want a tough solo backpacking
tent that will last the Akto is a great choice.
Tilley Hat
I discovered Tilley Hats in 1990 ago at the start of my walk
through the Yukon Territory in northern Canada. Over the years I’d tried and
discarded several sun hats but not found any that were really comfortable. The
Tilley felt right immediately and I bought one within minutes of trying it on
despite the high price. It was worth the money and the hat was worn for much of
the walk, fending off rain as well as sun. Since then the Tilley has been
around the Munros and Tops, along the Arizona Trail and the Pacific Northwest
Trail, across Corsica and to Everest Base Camp as well as on many other trips.
When I bought mine there was only one style. Now there are many styles. The
model I prefer is called the T3. I like the fact that it’s cotton, despite the
weight, as this breathes well and is cool in the heat. Soak it in water and it
keeps your head cool for a long time. I like the tall crown, which doesn’t
press on the head and so is more comfortable and cooler than ones that do, and
I like the wide, stiffened brim, which shades the face and neck better than
floppy ones.
Caldera Cone Stove System
Caldera Ti-Tri & Evernew 900 |
On my first long distance walk, from Land’s End to John O’Groats, I used a Trangia meths stove. Although it worked well I never took it on another long walk due to the weight and bulk plus the need to carry lots of fuel. Now after years of using petroleum fuel and cartridge stoves I’ve returned to meths for long distance walks. This is due to the ingenious Caldera Cone, a curved cone of thin metal that acts as a wind shield for a drinks can meths burner and as a pot support. It works just like a Trangia at a fraction of the weight. It’s fuel efficient too and boils water quite quickly for a meths stove. The basic Caldera Cone, made from aluminium, is excellent. The Ti-Tri titanium version is even better as you can also burn wood in it. And best of all is the Ti-Tri Inferno, which has a smaller inverted cone that fits inside the Caldera and makes burning wood much more efficient.
Evernew 900ml Pan
This simple titanium pan was another love-at-first-sight
item. Having gone through several sets of aluminium pans, which soon became
dented and scratched, I’d changed to heavier but tougher stainless steel when I
saw my first titanium pan in a US outdoor store well over twenty years ago. It
looked wonderful and felt even better as it was so light. The price was high
but I bought it anyway. That pan has been used extensively ever since and is
still in fine condition. I think it will easily outlast me. It’s also just the
right size for my kind of solo cooking.
Pacerpoles
My conversion to poles came through ski touring. After a few
years it dawned on me that I didn’t need to be on skis for poles to be useful
and I started using them when walking. There didn’t seem to be much difference
between various brands until I discovered Pacerpoles with their specially
shaped handles. These felt natural and comfortable to hold and I liked not
having to use straps. I also found them easier to use and more efficient.
Eventually I came full circle and started using them for ski touring, where I
discovered they were better than standard ski poles.
GoLite Pinnacle Pack
I’m a minimalist when it comes to packs. I prefer simple,
clean designs without lots of bells and whistles. The Pinnacle fits this
description well and has all the features I require – a pocket for small and
light items, mesh side pockets for water bottles and maps and side straps for
attaching bulky or long items and for compressing it round a small load. It’s
also very light yet made from a very tough material. With 72 litres capacity
it’s very roomy, which I like because it means I can carry many days food if
necessary and I don’t have to pack it carefully if I’m tired or packing in a
storm. I find it comfortable with loads up to 20kg and it will handle more if
necessary.
Inov8 Terroc shoes
Drying sodden Inov8 Terrocs on the Pacific Northwest Trail |
When I first tried Inov8 Terroc shoes five years ago I was
astounded at the light weight. It felt almost as though I had nothing on my
feet. I was even more impressed when I found the shoes excellent for
hillwalking and backpacking. I’ve worn them frequently since and they are the
most comfortable walking footwear I’ve used. The grip is excellent, they are
very breathable, they dry fast and the toes and heel are quite tough. They’re
obviously not as durable as a pair of leather boots but they’ve outlasted some
other trail shoes and the same pair did three TGO Challenges plus other walks
for a total of over 600 miles.
Grand Shelters Icebox
Building an igloo on the Moine Mhor, Cairngorms |
Perhaps the most fun piece of gear I’ve used in recent years
is the Icebox, a unique tool designed for building igloos. With this shaped
plastic form you can make an igloo from any type of snow from powder to slush.
Building your own snow shelter is exciting and satisfying. The Icebox is also
practical. Igloos are strong, windproof, silent, very roomy and warmer than any
tent. I’ve done three trips into the Rocky Mountains in winter without a tent
but with an Icebox and have been warm and comfortable in an igloo every night,
even when the temperature fell to -35ºC in Yellowstone. I’ve also built several
igloos in the Scottish Highlands. The Icebox weighs 2.2kg and can be easily
strapped to a pack or a sledge. I’ve also built several igloos in the Scottish
Highlands.
Sunday 16 July 2017
On July 16, 1992, I had a spectacular camp on my walk the length of the Scandinavian Mountains
Twenty-five years ago I was camped high on the side of Utladalen in the south-west corner of the Jotunheimen National Park looking across at the alpine peaks of the Hurrungane. It was the twenty-third day of my walk the length of the Norwegian and Swedish mountains and I had completed 555 kilometres. The final total would be 2200.
To reach this point I had traversed the Setesdaleheiane and
Hardangervidda mountain plateaux in mixed weather and crossded many
snowmelt-filled streams and remnant snowfields. I’d enjoyed much wild and beautiful
scenery but nothing to compare to the grandeur of the Hurrungane. In my journal
I wrote ‘Hurrangane spikes and towers by far the finest peaks I have seen’. The
weather cleared as well for the first time in over a week and I also noted that
I had ‘almost dry boots’!
My camp site I described as ‘magnificent’ and for once I was
able to sit outside to cook and eat and relish the view. This fine weather
would hold for the next few days as I made my way through the Jotunheimen.
Note: the pictures are
scans from Fuji Velvia slides.
Saturday 15 July 2017
July 15, 1982, I was in Northern California on the Pacific Crest Trail
Larry Lake crossing one of the last snow patches on the Pacific Crest Trail with Mount Shasta in the distance |
In Northern California the snow that had made travel arduous and sometimes hazardous on the Pacific Crest Trail in 1982 finally began to dwindle away. Suddenly it was summer. Hot temperatures and too much dirt road walking had me changing back from boots to my now very worn running shoes. On the 15th July I walked 13 footsore miles from McArthur-Burney Falls State Park, where the impressive falls were duly admired, to Peavine Creek where I camped with Larry Lake on a 'well-used spot just off the road' and complained in my journal that there were too many logging trucks passing by.
Burney Falls |
Against that I wrote that most of the walk was through pleasant woodland with Douglas firs and oaks and that there were many birds. I was still enjoying myself! It was my 104th day on the trail and when I made camp I'd walked 1267 miles - nearly half way. I knew though that to finish before the first winter snows I was going to have to speed up. Now that the snow had gone I hoped it would be easy to do so.
When the trail emerged from the trees the views were excellent too. I was now in the southern Cascade mountains, whose summits didn't rise above timberline except for the first of the great strato-volcanoes, Mount Shasta. These huge mountains would be dominant in views all the way to Canada.
Dusk in Northern California with Mount Shasta in the distance |
The hot weather made staying cool difficult and I ended every day soaked in sweat. Washing this off made for a more comfortable night and I discovered I could use my water bag for a makeshift shower, though I couldn't always hang it in the most convenient spot.
The full story of my PCT hike is told in my book Rattlesnakes and Bald Eagles.
Photographic note: all pictures are scans from Kodachrome 64 slides taken with a Pentax MX SLR camera and Pentax 50mm and 28mm lenses.
Thursday 13 July 2017
And now in colour: on Ben Avon & Beinn a'Bhuird
Sunset in Glen Quoich |
Following my last monochrome post here are some colour photographs from the walk over Ben Avon and Beinn a'Bhuird. Apart from brief touches of yellow, orange and pink on both evenings plus a patch of blue sky on the second one the dominant colour was green - green woods, green grasses, and green tent. Sometimes the green was tinged with the brown of heather, sometimes tinged with yellow on the tops, but the overall impression was always of a subdued green landscape under a grey sky and broken up by grey and brown rocks and grey and white water.
Camp in upper Glen Quoich |
Stob an t-Sluichd, an outlying Top of Beinn a'Bhuird |
Ben Avon |
Coire nan Clach, Beinn a'Bhuird |
A distant late shaft of sunlight, camp on Beinn a'Bhuird |
The brightest colours of the trip well after sunset on the second night |
The Linn of Quoich |
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