Igloos! Igloos! Igloos!

Wheee!

I love igloos. I love building them. I love living in them. I was reminded of all this by an excellent new podcast from John D. Burns in which he talks to Andrew Terrill about igloos and hot tents. Mostly it's about Andrew enthusing about igloos and talking about Igloo Ed and his brilliant IceBox igloo tool. It reminded me of all my igloo trips so I thought I'd indulge myself and write about them again and post some of the pictures.

Igloo Ed outside our first igloo, Yellowstone, February 2007

It was Ed who started my love of igloos when he invited me on a trip to Yellowstone National Park back in 2007. It was a tough trip. Hauling heavy sleds through deep snow and up steep slopes. Building igloos late into the night (there were only two of us and I'd never built one before). Fording a thermally heated river in bitter cold. Temperatures below -30C. I loved it all! The combination of geysers and other thermal features, deep snow, and sub zero temperatures made it the strangest and most wonderful winter trip I've ever done. I wrote about it here.  

Igloo Ed outside our second igloo, Yellowstone, February 2007

My first night in an igloo amazed me. It was so comfortable - so much space, stillness, quiet. Very different to a tent. The warmth compared with outside surprised me too. -3ºC, with the stove going, -7ºC without when it was -23ºC outside.

First igloo and Lonestar Geyser on the second Yellowstone trip, February 2008

A year later I was back in Yellowstone with a group of Ed's friends. Unfortunately Ed was unwell and unable to take part. It was a great trip in easier conditions than the year before. 

Dawn after a night of snow at the second igloo, Wind River Range, April 2009

The following year we went to the Wind River Range, just south of Yellowstone. This was a spring trip and the warmer temperatures were welcome, though not when sticky snow stuck to the base of our sleds! We had company the first two nights then it was just myself and Ed.

Igloo Ed in our second igloo, Wind River Range, April 2009

By now, living in an igloo had become familiar and a pattern established. Comfort was assumed!

Igloo Ed at our third igloo, Wind River Range, April 2009

Our igloos were in spectacular situations on high points looking over the forest to the rugged Wind River mountains. I wrote about the trip here.

First Cairngorms igloo on the slopes of Carn Ban Mor, April 2010

That was my last igloo trip to the Rocky Mountains. However the next year saw the first igloo weekend in the Scottish Highlands with the Inverness Nordic Ski Club (now the Inverness Backcountry Snowsports Club) organised by Andy Ince. This became an annual event  (when there was enough snow and no lock-downs) on which I helped out with igloo building instruction and work. 

Waking to a blizzard we had to use compass bearings to find the descent route from these igloos on Carn Ban Mor in January 2011

Scottish Highlands snow not being as reliable as Rocky Mountains snow we had to be selective as to sites and times. There was usually only enough snow well above the glens too so stormy weather was more likely. 

On the slopes of Toll Creagach above Glen Affric, January 2012

As well as the Cairngorms we also went to Glen Affric where Andy knew there was often deep enough snow on the slopes of Toll Creagach.

After the thaw, February 2013

Only once did an igloo fail. That was on a trip where high winds prevented us reaching Carn Ban Mor and we built two igloos beside the path high above Glen Feshie. After dark the temperatures rose rapidly and a big thaw began. We'd built two igloos. The side of one collapsed and the four of us squeezed into the other one which just made it through the night. I wrote about it here. 

Igloo in sparse snow, Strath Nethy, Cairngorms, January 2013

Earlier the same year a group of use built an igloo on another stormy day when the weather kept us even lower down. There wasn't quite enough snow and we ended up dragging it to the igloo on plastic survival bags. The igloo was a success though.

The igloo meets went on each year, with a break due to the Covid lockdowns. Here's some more pictures.

Back on Carn Ban Mor in excellent weather and snow in April 2014

Not so much snow and not so good weather on Toll Creagach in February 2016. Successful igloo though.

Windy with spindrift for a pair of igloos in Coire Laogh Mor on Cairn Gorm in February 2017. Too stormy to go higher. 

Deep snow & perfect weather for igloos on Toll Creagach in February 2018. We reached the summit for once and had splendid views.

Four years later and a repeat on Toll Creagach in April 2022. Deep snow, perfect weather, and spectacular summit views again.

Rainbows, rain showers, and only just enough snow for our March 2023 igloos in Coire Laogh Mor. But we still built two plus a tiny solo one in which I slept.

A stormy approach followed by a superb day for the March 2024 igloos on Carn Ban Mor. For once I camped.

A brilliant starry night at the igloos on Carn Ban Mor in March 2024.

My Hiking & Backpacking Books

New edition packed with photos never published before.

It's the time of year for my annual book promotion. If you're looking for a book about hiking or backpacking as a present for someone or even yourself I've written a few that might be of interest including stories of long walks and guidebooks.

Stories of two very different long-distance walks just four years apart, one in the deserts of the SW USA, the other in the definitely not desert Scottish Highlands.

If you've already enjoyed any of my books please tell others and post comments and reviews on social media and online bookshops. Even a simple 'like' helps. For writers this makes a huge difference. Word of mouth and personal recommendations are invaluable.

A collection of essays on a variety of outdoor topics, a guide to a favourite area of the Scottish Highlands, and the story of a long and tough walk along the watershed of Scotland.

Advice, skills, gear, suggestions.

A detailed guide to the Scottish hills & the story of my Pacific Crest Trail hike.

If you buy from these Amazon links I receive 2-5% commission. Every click helps too!

Thank you if you do purchase something or click on one of the links.

High Summer

Crossing Arizona

The Munros & Tops (Kindle Edition) 

Out There 

Walking in Torridon 

Along the Divide

The Backpacker's Handbook 

Scotland 

Rattlesnakes and Bald Eagles (Kindle Edition) 

A Look At The January Issue of TGO

The January TGO has a tribute to TGO's founding editor, Roger Smith, who sadly died recently. Roger was also one of the creators and for many years the co-ordinator of the TGO Challenge. I think it is fair to say that both the magazine and the event may well not exist without all the work and effort Roger put into them. 

Unsurprisingly this issue has a wintry theme. The opening spread is a dramatic image of climbers on Am Basteir on the Cuillin Ridge in winter by Hamish Frost. 

There's a big feature called The Power Of Cold in which various outdoors people who love winter and snow are interviewed. I'm one of them, talking about winter camping along with David Lintern, a section illustrated with four of my snow camping photos. The whole feature starts with a double-page spread of another of my winter camp photos, taken on a memorable dawn after a bitter January night. In the same pages Gilly McArthur describes the joy of cold water swimming illustrated with shiver-making photos including plunge holes in ice (not something for me!) and Carla Khouri and Alice Kerr discuss becoming devoted winter walkers. There's advice for coping with the cold from Mountain Leader Jenny Bushell too.

The wintry theme continues with the story of a winter Wainwrights round by fellwalkers David Johnson and Nicky Oliver (and Floki the dog), and an account of snowshoeing in the Austrian Tyrol by Alex Roddie, along with advice on learning how to snowshoe.

Away from winter Adam Weymouth writes about his walk retracing the 1000-mile migration of a lone wolf across Europe, as told in his book Lone Wolf: Walking the Faultlines of Europe, which I am looking forward to reading. 

In The Long Review section of the gear pages I write about my now old and well-worn Paramo Aspira Jacket and Fuera Smock and how I care for them. In individual reviews Francesca Donovan tries the Finisterre Iris 1.2mm Yulex swimsuit and David Lintern the Durston X Dome 1+ tent. In comparative reviews Lara Dunn and Peter Macfarlane each try two pairs of gloves suitable for winter, James Roddie tests six head torches, and Lara Dunn relaxes in a couple of camping chairs.

In shorter pieces Nadia Shaikh looks for winter bird flocks, Francesca Donovan reviews a new film from the Save Windermere campaign called Origin: Finding The Source of Windermere, cancer survivor Marisa Wray talks about the mental and physical benefits of wild swimming, Jim Perrin pens a paean to Holyhead Mountain, and Juls Stodel advises a lonely camper. There's also information on The Great Outdoors Awards 2026.

Wild Walks looks at peak-to-pub winter walks. James Roddie takes a there-and-back trip from the Sligachan Hotel to Bruach na Frithe on the Cuillin Ridge, Vivienne Crow does a circular trip from the Shepherds Inn over Fiend's Fell in the North Pennines, James Forrest goes up Helm Crag from Tweedies Bar in Grasmere in the Lake District, also in the Lakes Norman Hadley traverses Ill Bell from the Mortal Man in Troutbeck, back in the North Pennines Ian Battersby ascends Scargill High Moor from The Ancient Unicorn in Bowes, a bit further south in the Yorkshire Dales Francesca Donovan makes a circuit of Middleton Fell from Barbon Inn, and down in Eryri/Snowdonia Andrew Galloway climbs Yr Wyddfa from the Cwellyn Arms in Ryhd-Ddu.

Hilleberg Soulo - a good solo tent for the winter

Winter having arrived in the Scottish Highlands I retrieved my Hilleberg Soulo tent from the shelf where it's been hiding since spring as I expect to be using it soon. Just in case it was missing pegs or there was a repair I'd forgotten to do I thought I'd better pitch it and check it over. And as I was doing that I thought I'd make a little video.

The Soulo doesn't get a great deal of use as it's quite heavy - if the weather looks benign I use a lighter tent - but there have been times when I've been very glad of its strength. In particular I take it when snow is forecast as I learnt early on how well it stands up to a heavy fall.

A buried Soulo. This was a test to see what happened if it was totally covered in thick snow. When I dug it out it was fine. If I'd been sleeping in it I would have cleared the doorway a few times during the night and knocked snow off the roof.

Sometimes the snow doesn't come, sometimes the winds are so strong up high that I end up camping in the forest when that's an option. Wherever, the Soulo works well.

What I like about the Soulo is it's easy to pitch even with gloves, has ample room inside (at least for someone 5 foot 8 inches/ 172 cms), and, most of all, feels secure in a storm.

Here's some more pictures of the Soulo in use over the years.

November Sunset in the Cairngorms

Cairn Toul & the Lairig Ghru just before sunset

One of the big advantages of the winter months in the Scottish Highlands is that sunset is in the middle of the afternoon not the middle of the night. I took advantage of this late in November when the forecast suggested clear calm weather. Just right for watching the light and descending in the dusk.

At the start of the walk, looking towards Cairn Gorm

My plan was to climb to the Cairngorm Plateau. However I made a mistake just before I set off. I left my snowshoes in the car. There wasn’t much snow visible at the start of my walk so I decided I didn’t want to carry them. Soon the snow became deeper and walking more difficult. I’d come just far enough that I didn’t think it worth going back for them. It would have been.

Enough people had been along the route to punch holes in the snow but not enough to create a trench. Some of the holes were knee deep. I stepped in and out of them. Laborious but easier than breaking my own trail. Sometimes shallow boot prints collapsed under my weight. I lurched slowly upwards.

Cairn Lochan

A couple passed me descending then a lone walker. This turned out to be Dan Bailey of UKHillwalking and we spent a pleasant few minutes discussing the snow (should have brought snowshoes we agreed), the weather, gear, the state of outdoor publishing, and more. Dan said he had a down jacket to test but it was too warm in the sun to try it.

Last sun on Creag an Leth-choin

I was in the shade as I headed up and it was well below freezing. However as soon as I reached the large flat area of the Miadan Creag an Leth-choin the sun reached me. It certainly was too warm for a down jacket. Indeed, I took my gloves off, unzipped the top of my Paramo jacket and sat on my pack while I had a snack and a hot drink and admired the snow and the view.

The sun about to set over Braeriach

The very best views here are on the edge of the steep slopes leading down into the Lairig Ghru pass so I left the boot holes that marked the path and headed that way. My admiration for whoever had broken the first holes soared. Plunging through the snow was incredibly arduous and the two hundred metres or so I walked seemed endless. I wished I’d brought those snowshoes!

Sunset sky over Sgor Gaoith & Sgoran Dubh Mor

Every step was worthwhile though. The view up and down the Lairig was magnificent. The sun was close to setting behind Braeriach and the light made the landscape glow. Orange and red crept across the sky as the vanishing sun lit up thin bands of cloud out to the west.

Last sun on Cairn Gorm

As the brightness faded from the mountains they suddenly looked cold, the pink tinge on the snow turning blue. Just the summits and then just the sky kept the warm colours.

The dusk darkens over Cairn Gorm

I set off back down, admiring the snow-plastered cliffs of Cairn Lochan. A crescent moon appeared in the sky. It had been a good day. Even without snowshoes.

Moon rise

Cairn Lochan

I made a little video while I was up there.

 

The First (Mini) Ski Tour Of The Winter

Good to be on skis again

Another night and day of snow showers and the mid-November snow looked deep enough for the skis. It's been a few years since I could ski from the garden gate at this time of year. The sky was overcast and dark with layers of thick clouds. A cold NW wind blew.

View to Ben Rinnes

The snow was soft. Pushing through it the skis didn't glide much but it was still much easier sliding than walking. Returning home I followed my tracks and was able to enjoy the sensation of slipping effortlessly over the snow.

View to Meall a' Bhuachaille

Distant views were hazy. Flat light, the sky and the snow similar shades, a slight air of unreality to the landscape. Silence except for the swishing of my skis.

Feeding ground

Whilst the snow creates a wonderland for skiers and walkers it's hard on animals and birds, especially those reliant on plants. The first day I'd been out in the snow there were just a few fox and deer tracks. Nothing moved. Today, the third day with lying snow, I saw one rabbit just briefly, before it popped back into its burrow, and two buzzards circling high above. Creatures had been active though as there were several areas where rabbits and deer had scraped away the snow in search of frozen nourishment.

Towards the Cairngorms

I looked over dark forests, much of the snow blown off the branches by the wind, to hints of the distant Cairngorms, edges of darker grey that might be mountains. Retreating from the wind blowing up strong and cold from the valley below I took shelter behind a grove of birch and aspen. Not far away was a favourite tree, an ancient battered goat willow.

The old goat willow

Out of the worst of the wind I made a little video.

I returned across the fields as the wind strengthened. Only a little trip but it felt so good to be out in the snow on skis again.

Old gateposts framing a distant Ben Rinnes

The following day a slow thaw started and the first post of the week arrived, the postie having made it up the track, though he did say only just up the steepest bit. The book was the new edition of the Scottish Mountaineering Club's Ski Mountaineering in Scotland. It looks glorious, full of mouth-watering pictures. I hope I'll be some of the easier routes in the months to come (the harder ones I couldn't have done when my skiing was at my best and certainly wouldn't attempt now - of course I am always on Nordic skis and the book is really for Alpine tourers).