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Sron na Lairig catches some hazy sunshine
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On my trip with Tony Hobbs last month (see
here)
we descended the north ridge of Creag an Leth-choin in the Cairngorms. I couldn’t
remember ever coming this way before but my maps showed a broken path much of
the way. The maps also showed a path angling down the steeper western side of
the hill, a route that would have been shorter and probably quicker. However as
we descended the ridge I didn’t spot the start of this path and I didn’t want
to take Tony down into possibly tricky terrain so we stayed on the upper path until
it ended at a boulder field which wasn’t steep and so not too difficult to
cross.
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Cairn Lochan
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Afterwards I wondered about that other path and decided to go
back and see if I could find it from below. The stormy weather was meant to
ease in the afternoon I did this so I had a late start. Initial sunshine was
promising, and deceptive. I could see traces of snow high on Cairn Lochan and
the sky appeared to be clearing. The change came very fast. In just a few
minutes the clouds thickened, a cold wind roared, and torrential rain fell.
Walking straight into it I felt scoured.
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Storm blasted
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As I entered the rocky defile of the Chalamain Gap the storm
cleared and the sun appeared, shining straight into my face. I welcomed the
sunshine but would have preferred it anywhere else on the walk. The boulder
scramble through the Chalamain Gap isn’t difficult but concentration is
required and being dazzled by the sun didn’t help in selecting which rock to
step on next. After the rain the boulders were greasy too, as a walker coming
the other way warned me. I slipped a few times, bruised my shin, then decided
slowing down, testing foot placements, and taking short steps was advisable.
Two walkers coming the other way were also moving cautiously. “Slow and steady”,
said one. They were the last people I saw all day.
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The Chalamain Gap
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Down in the boulders it felt warm as the air was calm.
However once out of the ravine the cold wind reminded me of the time of year.
The sun vanished again as more thick clouds rolled in. I soon found the path up
Creag an Leth-choin, the start marked by a small cairn. I’ve walked this way
many times, including twice previously this year, but couldn’t remember ever
noticing it.
The path was narrow and overgrown in places but quite clear.
As it reached steeper ground it took a careful line, avoiding boulder fields as
far as possible. It had been designed well. As the angle eased I lost it a few
times. Eventually it disappeared altogether, or maybe I couldn’t see it. The
terrain was easy here, just short vegetation and stones, so I just angled up to
the ridge. I was recording the route on Topo GPS on my phone and looking at this
afterwards I could see I’d paralleled the path and was only a hundred metres or
so from it. I’ll have to go back and see if I can find this top section.
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The Lairig Ghru
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This wasn’t the day for that though as I was now in the
cloud and the wind was very strong and cold. Rain was starting again too. I
went over Creag an Leth-choin, with fleeting views down the Lairig Ghru pass, and
then descended to the Sugarbowl car park, the last hour by headlamp as night
fell.