Showing posts with label backpacking stoves. Show all posts
Showing posts with label backpacking stoves. Show all posts

Monday, 11 May 2026

A video comparing two lightweight stove systems: the Jetboil Stash and the Primus Lite Ultra

Jetboil Stash (left) and Primus Lite Ultra 0.8L

The Jetboil Stash, launched several years ago, and the new Primus Lite Ultra 0.8L are, as far as I know, the two lightest gas canister stove systems by a long way. By stove system I mean a pot and stove designed to work together and only available as a unit. Usually the pot and stove lock together when in use though this isn't the case with the Stash, which is really only a system because you can't buy the components separately. 

I made a little video comparing the two systems, including a boil and gas usage test. Conclusion: the Jetboil Stash is noisy, has little wind-resistance, boils water faster and is more fuel efficient, the Primus Lite Ultra is very quiet, has much better wind resistance, is slower boiling water and uses more fuel. This is just one boil test though. I may get different results next time!



Comparing the pots, both 800ml, I prefer the Stash simply because it's wider and easier to actually cook in and use as a bowl than the taller, narrower Lite Ultra. 


Tuesday, 31 March 2026

A First Look At The New Jetboil TrailCook 1.2L

Jetboil TrailCook 1.2L

My most used stove and pot combination for winter camping for more than a decade has been the Jetboil MiniMo as it has a regulated burner and a wide pot with a heat exchanger. I’ve long thought this by far the best of Jetboil’s stove systems so I was  excited to hear that a successor was being launched featuring some of the new features that appeared in the revamped Flash 1.0L last year (my review here).

Melting snow with the MiniMo

The new model is called the TrailCook, and is available with 1.2 or 2 litre pots.  I have the TrailCook 1.2L to test. These are my first thoughts. I’ll be testing it very soon.

Where the Flash is intended for boiling water only the TrailCook is designed for cooking as well. To that end it has a regulated burner like the MiniMo to give good flame control for simmering. Regulated burners also work better in the cold than non-regulated ones like the Flash and the power output should remain constant as the gas canister empties.

TrailCook control

Like the Flash the TrailCook burner has a single twist and click dial that turns the stove on, activates the Piezo igniter, and controls the flame. Also like the Flash the igniter is protected in a ceramic casing and there’s a rubberised coloured grip zone you can hold without burning your hand.  The burner head is the same size as the Flash too. 

Burner, Piezo & Pot Support

The pot support is a completely different new design. Instead of a metal ring onto which the pot locks there are three folding arms. The pot sits securely on these but doesn’t lock in place. You can’t tip it very far without the pot falling off. It’s much more like a conventional pot and burner design. Other pots can sit on the supports though none I’ve tried so far are very stable.

TrailCook 1.2L pot

The pot has the usual heat exchanger on the base – Jetboil calls this a Flux Ring. The pot is made of ceramic coated aluminium so that food won’t stick. To avoid scratching the coating  I think it’s probably wise to use non-metal utensils. The total volume is 1.2 litres, but there is a maximum fill line of 700ml marked inside. This along with 300ml and 500ml marks plus ones for cups and ounces is engraved in black inside the black pot and difficult see without a light. There’s an insulating neoprene sleeve round the pot so you can hold it without burning your hand.

The pot has a secure insulated metal handle that clips over the top of the pot for storage and to keep the lid in place. This is much better than the limp fabric handle on the Flash. It’s needed so you can hold the pot firmly while stirring food. The transparent synthetic lid has steam and drain holes and a flip-up insulated knob.

The TrailCook 1.2L comes with a 300mll bowl that fits on the base – not available on the TrailCook 2.0L – and a plastic foldable canister stabiliser. The total weight is 591 grams. Without the bowl and stabiliser it’s 496 grams.

Burner, 100-size canister, & stabiliser in the pot

The burner, stabiliser and a 100 size canister will fit inside the pot. A 230 size canister will also fit inside but not with the burner. To protect the ceramic coating I would always wrap the canister in a cloth and store the burner in the cloth bag provided.

TrailCook 1.2L & MiniMo

So how does the TrailCook compare to the MiniMo?  The MiniMo’s pot is a bit smaller at 1 litre, which I prefer for solo use, and does lock onto the burner, which I also prefer. The MiniMo is also lighter than the TrailCook 1.2L at 413 grams in total and 366 grams without the plastic bowl that fits on the base. That’s a significant weight difference. The MiniMo is also slightly smaller when packed. I’m not sure about the ceramic coating on the pot. The MiniMo doesn’t have this and I’ve not had big problems with food sticking.

Important features shared by the MiniMo and the TrailCook are the regulated burner and the wide pot. These are what separate them from other Jetboil stove systems

The new plus points of the TrailCook are the single igniter/ one-off-switch/flame control (though the lack of a long lever means you have to get your fingers near the burner to use it – this is where the grip zone is useful) ), the ability to use other pots, the long handle, which is easier to hold firmly than the fold-out ones on the MiniMo, and the lid which is easier to get on and off than the MiniMo’s. The Piezo igniter is better protected too and so should last longer than the one on the MiniMo, which failed some time ago. And it you use the bowl the TrailCook’s feels much tougher.

The MiniMo is being phased out but will be available for a while longer.

Overall my first impressions of the TrailCook are positive though I wish it was a bit lighter. Now I have to use it and see what I think then.

I made a little video about the TrailCook.



Links:

TrailCook 1.2L  

MiniMo    

Flash 1.0L 

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Tuesday, 24 February 2026

A New Stove System From Fire Maple


I'd just finished a comparative stove review for The Great Outdoors magazine (to appear soon) when another stove arrived, this one the Fire Maple Star X1 Pro Cooking System.* This follows the familiar pattern of a heat exchanger pot that fits on top of a canister stove. There are a few interesting features on this version of the design though. Note that this is just a first look. I haven't used the stove yet.

The litre-size pot is made of aluminium and has a rubbery lid that fits well but not too tightly. The best feature is the long stainless steel handle which locks firmly into place and folds over the lid when the unit is packed. This is excellent and far better than the webbing loops found on some similar stove systems which I always find a little uncomfortable and insecure. The handle has insulating material over it so it shouldn't get too hot.

The pot has a stretchy cosy, two stretchy cosies in fact, one plain black, one with red markings that I really like. With cosy and lid the pot weighs 276 grams.

Similar stoves often come with plastic bowls that fit under the heat exchanger. I don't find these very useful as they easily get dirty from the heat exchanger and are vulnerable to cracking. The Star X1 Pro doesn't have one of these. Instead it has a Tritan plastic bowl that fits inside the pot. It weighs 61 grams. I'll probably leave it at home.

The burner unit is substantial with thick plastic supports and a raised metal surround that should help keep off wind.  There's a Piezo igniter and a small control knob.

The pot fits on top of the stove via two slots that slip over little nodules on the inside of the metal surround. The pot can then be twisted to secure it in position. Once this is done it feels very stable.

The burner, bowl, and a 100 gram canister can be packed inside the pot. A 230 gram canister will fit but if you put the burner in as well it protrudes above the top so you can't close the lid. The burner weighs 188 grams.

The complete unit weighs 525 grams on my scales, which is 30 grams less than Fire Maple's figure. Leave the bowl behind and that comes down to 464 grams. This weight is typical for this type of cooking system.

I'll take the unit on my next camping trip and see how it does. Fire Maple says it can boil 500ml of water in 1 minute 42 seconds using 4.5g of fuel. That's a very fast boil time and very low fuel usage. I'll be interested to see what it does in my tests.
 
The cost is £39.26, which is very low.

I made a little video about the stove.



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Sunday, 12 May 2024

Heat Exchanger Pots

Jetboil Stash pot & stove

Heat exchangers are corrugated fins or vanes on the base of a pot that capture heat that would otherwise be lost to the air and up the sides of the pot and transfer it to the contents. Jetboil launched the first stove system with a heat exchanger (HX) pot twenty years ago. Since then I’ve used and reviewed several such systems, from MSR and Primus as well as Jetboil. I’ve always liked the fast boil times and fuel efficiency yet I never thought of taking one on a long-distance walk due to the weight and bulk (the lightest, the Jetboil MicroMo, weighs 349g). Until that is Jetboil launched the Stash, a basic burner and HX pot that at 200 grams could genuinely be called lightweight, back in 2020. I reviewed it for The Great Outdoors in 2021 and said I’d consider taking it on my next long walk. I’ve used it a great deal since then and I think it’s a wonderful unit for solo backpacking. I’m taking the Stash pot on the Cape Wrath Trail soon but maybe not the Stash stove, for reasons outlined below.

Jetboil Stash

It’s the pot that’s impressive with the Stash. It’s made from hard-anodised aluminium and holds 800ml. It’s not tall and narrow like many HX pots and so easier to stir and to eat from. It weighs just 140 grams. The Stash burner is also light at 60 grams but doesn’t have the performance of higher spec stoves as it’s not regulated and so power declines in the cold and as the canister empties. It also has no wind resistance at all so a windshield is needed in all but the gentlest breeze. It is still a perfectly adequate stove that I’ve used on many trips but there are better ones.

MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe with Jetboil Stash pot

After a year with the Stash, using it on every trip, I decided to try the pot with other stoves in cold and windy weather. The results were impressive. With the regulated MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe (PRD) stove water boiled faster than with the Stash burner, the power stayed high with an almost empty canister, and it didn’t need a windshield until the wind got quite strong. The Optimus Vega remote canister stove and Stash pot again outperformed the Stash stove. This setup also has the advantage of being low profile and more stable. However there is a significant weight penalty – it’s a 100g more than the PRD and 125g more than the Stash burner. With the Vega the canister can be turned upside down to turn it into a liquid feed stove in extreme cold though this does increase fuel usage. I only use it in winter.

Optimus Vega stove with Jetboil Stash pot

The Stash pot is superb, the best solo backpacking pot I’ve used. You can’t buy it on its own though, only with the Stash burner, and Jetboil warns that it should not be used with other stoves. When I asked why Jetboil said “the Stash pot was designed for high performance on the Stash burner as a Cook System. However, we cannot guarantee its performance or safety on all the assortment of burners and pan supports available, so we recommend only to use on Stash”. So if you use it with other stoves it’s at your own risk.

There is a big disadvantage in doing so anyway. The high cost - £155 at the time of writing. That makes for an awfully expensive pot! So what are the alternatives and are they any good?

Fire Maple HX Pots

The only standalone HX pots I knew about until recently were ones from Vango and Optimus that are too heavy for solo backpacking except on short trips, at least for me. The Vango Ultralight Heat Exchanger Cook Kit, which I have had for a few years, comes with two bowls and cutlery and has a cosy round the pot. The total weight is 387g, the pot alone 286g*. The Optimus Terra Express HE weighs 377g and has a non-stick coating. Both are worth considering for duos.

Soto Windmaster 4Flex stove with Fire Maple FMC-XK6 pot

Searching online for lighter standalone HX pots brought up some fascinating videos from Flat Cat Gear about the ultralight 800ml Fire Maple Petrel HX pot and an interesting article called  Superstove for Optimal Backcountry Cooking by Alan Dixon and Jaeger Shaw on the Adventure Alan website that recommends the 1 litre Olicamp XTS pot (which is identical to the Fire Maple FMC-XK6 HX) as the best alternative to the Stash pot and also mentions the Fire Maple Petrel HX pot. Curious to try them I bought both Fire Maple pots, at a combined cost less than a third that of the Stash.

Soto Windmaster Triflex fitted onto Fire Maple Petrel pot

Both the pots are hard-anodised aluminium with plastic lids – an excellent one on the Petrel, a poor one on the clumsily named FMC-XK6 (which I’ll call the FMC from now on). The Petrel is tall and narrow and not so good for simmering food or eating from as the wider and bigger FMC. The Petrel weighs 166g, the FMC 195g. The Petrel is unique in having slots on the base of the heat exchanger. These are designed to fit the pot supports of a Fire Maple stove but also just right for the Soto Windmaster with the Triflex three-pronged supports (the stove comes with a four-pronged support, the Triflex is an extra option). The Windmaster is a powerful regulated stove comparable with the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe (which won’t fit in the Petrel slots unless you do some modifications as shown in this Flat Cat Gear video). The only other stove I have that fits the Petrel is the Jetboil Mighty Mo, which in fact fits even more securely than the Windmaster but is a fair bit heavier – 98 rather than 68 grams. Of course you can just balance the Petrel on a stove without using the slots but that means it’s less effective, Having the burner inside the heat exchanger improves fuel efficiency, boiling time, wind resistance and stability.

Of the two pots I prefer the FMC as the width makes it easier to use than the Petrel. The FMC is 55g heavier and a bit bigger than the Stash pot. The combined weight with the PRD stove is 279g. The Petrel is 25g heavier than the Stash. With the PRD the total weight is 234g. Either of these is a good alternative to the PRD/Stash pot combination, which weighs 225g, or the Windmaster 4 Flex/Stash combination, which weighs 229g (the Triflex supports are too short to be stable with the Stash pot).

The Stash pot plus the PRD or Windmaster stove combines the best pot with the best canister top stoves that I’ve used. But for the price of the Stash you could buy six Fire Maple pots.

Why HX Pots?

Do HX pots really have advantages? That depends! Faster boil times are often touted as the big plus but I don’t think a few minutes difference really matters, and fuel efficiency is higher is if a stove isn’t run at full power. What is significant is reduced fuel usage, especially on long trips where there may be many days between resupply points. Heat exchanger pots also increase performance in cold and wind, which I also think more important than fast boil times.

From left: Jetboil Stash, Fire Maple Petrel, Fire Maple FMC-XK6, Jetboil MicroMo

HX pots are all hard anodised aluminium which may not last as long as titanium but which costs far less. Why not titanium? Jetboil did try this with the Sol Ti stove but there were problems with the heat exchanger fins melting and it was discontinued. No-one has made a titanium HX pot since as far as I know so I guess there are possibly insurmountable technical problems.

Three years ago I posted a piece on pots in which I said of HX pots “these do reduce the amount of fuel needed and speed boiling times but also add weight. I like a heat exchanger pot in winter for snow melting but otherwise I find a standard pot fine”.  I’ve changed my mind. I now use an HX pot year round.

Heat exchangers. Clockwise from top left: Fire Maple FMC, Fire Maple Petrel, Jetboil MicroMo, Jetboil Stash

I can see no big disadvantages to HX pots. The size and weight increase over titanium pots isn’t that big. The Evernew 900ml titanium pot that I’ve used on every long distance walk for over twenty years weighs 137 grams, just 3 grams less than the Stash pot! The 900ml MSR Titan titanium pot is lighter at 125 grams but there’s still only a 16g difference. In comparative tests I found that on average using HX pots meant a fuel saving of about 4 grams per 500ml of water boiled. So the weight difference between the Titan and Stash pots covers enough fuel to boil 2 litres of water.

There is a view that HX pots are unsuitable for anything other than boiling water but I’ve found this is more dependent on the burner than the pot. This opinion may have come about because the first HX stove systems didn’t simmer well. This isn’t true of most current ones and certainly not of HX pots combined with regulated stoves. Having a stove and pot that aren’t locked together also helps as you can easily lift the pot off the stove to see the flame when you turn it down. I’ve simmered food without problems in HX pots with PRD, Windmaster, Stash, Vega, and other gas stoves.  

Testing, testing

Testing lab

I recently reviewed a selection of stoves for The Great Outdoors in which I compared boil times and fuel usage with HX and non-HX pots. The results further convinced me that HX pots are worth using. I then did a follow-up test comparing the Soto Windmaster Triflex with the Petrel pot, the Stash stove and pot, and the Jetboil MicroMo. The Soto had the fastest boil time, the Stash took 17 seconds longer to boil the water but used a gram less fuel. The MicroMo was between the two on both counts. Practically there’s no significant difference. However this was in warm calm weather with full canisters. The Stash stove doesn’t perform as well as the others when it’s windy or in the cold, especially with a less than half-full canister. As well as being regulated the Windmaster, like the PRD, has a small windshield round the burner, and is further protected by the Petrel heat exchanger.

Windshields

Windshield round MSR Pocket Rocket 2 stove and Evernew titanium pot

A big problem with the Stash and similar stoves is that they aren’t wind-resistant. Anything above a gentle breeze can blow the flame sideways and reduce the performance significantly, sometimes preventing water boiling. A few stoves like the PRD and the Windmaster have tiny windshields round the burner that do make a difference though in strong winds the performance still deteriorates. The Jetboil system stoves like the MiniMo and MicroMo are much the same. The only stoves I’ve used that don’t require any wind protection are the MSR Windburner and the MSR Reactor stoves. These are great for winter use, especially snow melting, but weigh 425 and 432g respectively. With other stoves I use a foil windshield that can surround three sides of the burner and which comes part way up the side of the pot. It woirks well. I’ve never had a canister get hot doing this. My current foil windshield weighs 55g.

MSR Reactor. Great in the snow but heavy

There are windshields available that fit around the burner. I tried a few of these in the past and found them clunky, awkward and not as efficient as the foil windshield. However Flat Cat Gear has a range of windshields for different stoves that look effective and easier to use.

*All pot weights include the supplied lid. This could be replaced with a lighter one, such as a piece of foil. A lid increases fuel efficiency so I always use one.


Wednesday, 12 July 2023

Refilling & Recycling Backpacking Stove Gas Canisters


Backpacking stove gas canisters tend to be replaced when almost empty because the heat from them is no longer enough to be of use. At least that’s what happens to my canisters. Stoves with regulators, low profile stoves with preheat tubes so the canister can be turned upside down, and stove systems with pots with heat exchangers are more efficient at using up gas than simple screw-in canister top stoves but there is always a little gas left when the stove no longer puts out heat.

This presents two problems. How to get the last gas out of a canister and what to do with the growing pile of almost empty canisters, given that they can’t be recycled with gas still in them. There are two different tools for this that actually complement each other.

The first is a gas transfer tool that lets you fill one canister from another. This consists of a two-way valve that screws into both canisters. To ensure the gas flows from one canister to the other there needs to be a heat differential between them with the canister you’re filling colder than the one being emptied. Putting one in the freezer for five minutes and the other in sunshine, or at least a warm room, should be enough.


Once the canisters are screwed in place and the valve is opened you can hear the gas rushing into the bottom canister. Once this stops you can close the valve.

To avoid overfilling a canister, which would be dangerous, I weigh the canisters and ensure that the total amount of gas in both canisters is less than that in a full canister – around 75-85%. Canisters have the amount of gas marked on them – 110g, 230g, 450g are common – so If you know the weight of a full canister (about 380g for a canister with 230g of gas, the size I mostly use, depending on the brand) you can work out how much gas a canister contains.

The tool I use for this is the FlipFuel and it works really well.

 

Now it might seem that this fuel transfer process leaves one canister completely empty, but I haven’t found this to be so, which is where the other tool comes in. To be recycled a canister should be punctured and preferably at least partly flattened (they are tough - try a sledgehammer!). To ensure there is no gas left before puncturing the canister another valve can be attached that vents the very last bit. This valve is part of the Jetboil CrunchIt Butane Canister Recycling Tool which also has a sharp spike for puncturing the canister when fully empty.

I was surprised to discover that when no more fuel would transfer between canisters and I attached the CrunchIt to the apparently empty one gas was still vented, sometimes a surprising amount. Only when the hiss of this has died away and I can’t hear any gas coming out even with my ear close to it do I puncture the canister. The empty canister can then be recycled with other metal cans.


Before I discovered the FlipFuel I was wasting a lot of gas by venting almost empty canisters with the CrunchIt. Now I use the two together.

The valves of both tools are designed for the common Lindahl Valve used on most small gas canisters designed for backpacking stoves. The brand of canister doesn’t matter.

I should point out that I always use both tools outside and nowhere near any open flame.

These are not items I’ve ever carried with me, but I guess on long trips I might do so if I was taking several canisters and thought I might want to transfer fuel between them or puncture and flatten empty ones for carrying. They’re both small and at 36g for the FlipFuel and 32g for the CrunchIt wouldn’t add much to the load.

Monday, 10 December 2018

Classic Gear: The MSR XGK Stove

The original MSR Stove as pictured in the 1973 MSR catalogue
Next in the Classic Gear series that first appeared in The Great Outdoors last year: a revolutionary stove design.

The remote burner stove with a fuel tank at the end of a long hose is now a standard design. Every stove company makes at least one and there are models that run on butane/propane canisters as well as liquid fuels like petrol and paraffin. These stoves are efficient and reliable, especially in cold weather.  However back in the 1970s they didn’t exist and burners sat on top of fuel tanks. Such stoves were okay for summer use and with small pots but weren’t that good in sub-zero temperatures or with big pots. 

This was all to change when a new company in Seattle called Mountain Safety Research (MSR) set out to design a more practical and efficient stove, in particular one that could easily melt snow when winter mountaineering. After much testing MSR worked out that a remote, pump pressurised fuel tank was the answer and in 1973 the original remote burner stove was launched, using a fuel bottle as the tank. Originally just called the MSR Stove, soon changed to the MSR Model 9, this stove revolutionised stove design, though it took a while for the idea to spread. The Model 9 ran on white gas such as Coleman Fuel plus unleaded and leaded petrol. Apparently meths could be used too ‘if the air inlets of the burner are mostly closed with foil’. It weighed 340 grams, which was very light for a liquid fuel stove.

The MSR Model G, introduced in 1978
 
Since 1973 MSR has continued to improve the stove. The Model G and Model GK stoves replaced the Model 9 in 1978 and had field-maintainable fuel-lines, a big breakthrough. The GK version could also burn paraffin, diesel and some aviation fuels as well as petrol. These two models were merged in 1982 as the X-GK.

The MSR XGK II Shaker Jet
 
The next major improvement was in 1994 when the Shaker Jet was introduced in the X-GK II. This involved putting a weighted needle in the jet that pushed any dirt out of the jet when the stove was shaken or moved but which didn’t interfere with fuel flow when the stove was in use. Before the Shaker Jet a jet pricker had to be used. This was a very fine wire needle on a piece of aluminium that had to be prodded into the jet to dislodge dirt if it became blocked. Jet prickers were awkward to use, especially with cold fingers and by torchlight, and easy to break or lose – I used to carry two or more and once had to resort to using a toothbrush bristle when I mislaid both. Jet prickers also pushed the dirt back into the fuel line from which it could rise up and again block the jet.

Today's MSR XGK EX
 
From the Model 9 to the X-GKII all the stoves had rigid metal fuel lines. These were tough and easy to clean but rather awkward to pack. In 2005 MSR changed this to a flexible line in a braided metal sheath. This makes packing the stove much easier and is still stiff enough for easy cleaning.
A significant extra advantage of MSR’s design was that because the burner was separate from the fuel tank it could be fully surrounded by a windshield. To this end MSR introduced the now ubiquitous lightweight and compact folding foil windscreen.

The XGK continues as a workhorse stove, ideal for melting masses of snow and boiling big pots of water. I used one regularly when I led ski backpacking trips and cooked for ten or more people at a time. I took one on my length of Scandinavia walk back in 1992 too as I didn’t know what fuel would be available along the way and I wanted a multi-fuel stove that would work with dirty fuels and was easy to clean. I ended up mostly using paraffin and needed to clean the fuel line every so often. The XCK never let me down on any of these trips. 

Whenever you use a remote burner stove remember MSR and the Model 9 and XGK. That’s where it began.

Saturday, 15 August 2015

Stoves for Wild Camping


In the Richardson Mountains in the Yukon Territory with a gasoline stove

Having been asked a few questions about stoves recently I’ve thought I’d post this piece. It first appeared in TGO last year and has been updated to take into account a couple of new stoves.

One point not covered in the piece is lighting a stove. Some come with Piezo igniters – in my experience these break after a while. I’d never rely on just one type of lighter anyway. I always carry at least two – a fire steel and a lighter and/or matches. Paul Kirtley recently wrote a warning tale on this on his blog.

Choosing a stove is as much about choosing the fuel as choosing a burner. The availability of fuel, how long a given amount lasts and how well it works in different conditions are all factors to take into consideration. For short trips in Britain the first and second factors may not matter but on long trips or if you're going abroad then being able to buy fuel is important (you can't fly with it or send it through the post).  On my last two long distance walks, the Pacific Northwest Trail and the Scottish Watershed, I used a meths/alcohol stove because that was the only fuel I knew I would be able to buy in small towns along the way other than petrol/gasoline, which is harder to use and requires a much heavier stove. How well fuel performs becomes important in sub-zero conditions, especially for snow melting.

The main fuels are butane/propane, white gas (Coleman Fuel and similar), and methylated spirits (meths)/alcohol. Less commonly used are petrol/gasoline, paraffin/kerosene, diesel, solid fuel and wood. Some stoves are multi-fuel, which can be a big advantage. The heat output from butane/propane, white gas, petrol and paraffin is similar but meths/alcohol is much less powerful so more fuel has to be carried.

For travel to different countries it's useful to know the local names for different fuels, especially white gas and alcohol. This is a pretty comprehensive list.

Butane/Propane Stoves
 
 
Soto Micro Regulator
Stoves that run on butane/propane cartridges are very easy to use. They're clean too, with no liquid fuel to spill, and the smallest burners are very light and compact. There are two types of gas stove (so-called because the fuel is burnt as a gas though it's liquid when under pressure in the cartridge). Upright or piggyback stoves are ones where the stove screws directly into the cartridge. These are the lightest gas stoves and fine for use in above freezing conditions. They're also best used with small pots as they're not very stable with big ones. When the temperature drops below freezing these stoves can be slow as the fuel doesn't vaporise easily. In extreme cold or with almost empty cartridges the stoves may barely work at all. Warming the cartridge with your hands and insulating it from the ground can help to increase the heat output. Using a heat exchanger pot can make a difference too as more of the heat goes into the pot rather than the air.

Jetboil MiniMo
Of the upright gas stoves I've used the MSR Micro Rocket, Soto Micro Regulator, Optimus Crux Lite, Coleman Fi Lite and Primus Express Ti all work well and are very light weight. Slightly heavier is the MSR Superfly but it's worth considering for use in some European countries, as it's one of the few stoves that will work with Campingaz CV resealable cartridges as well as standard ones. Some years ago I used a Superfly on the GR20 in Corsica where CV cartridges were the only ones easily available. Heat exchanger stoves that come as units with pots are heavier but use much less fuel. Here I'd go for the Jetboil MiniMo for three-season use or the MSR Reactor or Windboiler for winter, especially snow melting.

For larger pots and winter weather remote cartridge stoves are excellent. These have a lower profile than upright stoves and so are more stable. Because the cartridge is connected to the stove by a long hose it can be warmed more easily. More significantly as long as the stove has a preheat tube - a section of fuel pipe running through the burner - the cartridge can be inverted so that liquid fuel runs through the fuel line rather than gas which means the stove will work well in the cold. Some stoves such as the Optimus Vega come with fold-out legs to support an inverted cartridge. With other stoves the cartridge has to be lent against something or supported with tent pegs.
Inverted cartridge for cooking in freezing temperatures
 Remote cartridge stoves weigh more than upright stoves but are still quite light. My choices would be the Optimus Vega, Primus Spider, MSR Whisperlite Universal, Alpkit Koro and, with heat exchanger pots, the Primus Eta Spider Stove Set and Primus Power.

How much fuel is needed depends on how much the stove is used of course. I generally boil 2-4 litres of water a day and run a stove for 30-45 minutes. Used like this a 250 size cartridge lasts me three to four days with a standard stove and pot and six or seven days with a heat exchanger unit.

Liquid Fuel & Multi-Fuel Stoves

For long distance walks, especially in remote places, liquid fuel stoves running on white gas (purified petrol) such as Coleman Fuel, petrol or paraffin were standard a few decades ago. I used them on half a dozen multi-month walks. They were also good in sub-zero temperatures and for group cooking so I also used them when I led ski tours. Such stoves usually have pumps so pressure can be maintained as the fuel bottle empties so the heat output is constant even in the cold. Most stoves have remote fuel bottles that detach from the stove for carrying too. Good examples that I've used successfully are the Optimus Svea 123, Optimus Nova, MSR XGK EX, MSR Whisperlite Internationale and MSR Dragonfly.

These stoves will run on white gas, unleaded petrol, paraffin and diesel so even in remote places some type of fuel should be available. The latest models will also run on butane/propane cartridges and it's one of these that I'd choose now because of the versatility. I'd mostly use it with cartridges too, only using liquid fuels if that's all I could get. I used to prefer liquid fuel for snow melting in winter but now I use a gas stove with inverted cartridge and heat exchanger pots. The Primus OmniLite Ti and MSR Whisperlite Universal are both good multi-fuel models that will run on cartridges.

With liquid fuel stoves I find a litre of fuel lasts at least ten days. A big advantage of these stoves is that most are field-maintainable, unlike most gas stoves. That could be important on a long trip in a remote area.

Methylated Spirits/Alcohol Stoves
  
Unlike liquid fuels and butane/propane meths doesn't need to be pressurised for use in a stove. This means that stoves can be much simpler with no moving parts, so there's little to go wrong. Indeed, you can make your own meths burner out of old drinks cans. Meths is also a quiet fuel with none of the hiss or roar of pressurised fuels so you can hear the sounds of nature rather than the noise of the stove. However there are cons to meths as a fuel too. The main one is that it's not as efficient as pressurised fuels so more is needed. I find a litre lasts me 5-7 days which fits in with Trangia's claim that a litre of meths will boil twenty litres of water. As with all stoves some models are more fuel efficient than others.

Trail Designs Ti-Tri
Also, the flame is just about invisible in bright light so care needs to be taken when checking to see if a stove is still lit or not . Don't add more fuel until you're sure it's out! I make sure by holding my hand a few feet above the stove and slowly lowering it to see if I can feel any heat. Simmering can be difficult with many meths burners too, though some do have crude simmer controls. Because meths isn't pressurised it has no wind resistance so a windscreen is essential in even a light breeze (I recommend a windscreen with any stove for fuel efficiency anyway).

Meths is an easy fuel to find as I discovered on my last two long distance walks. Chemists and hardware stores usually stock it. It can be carried in ordinary lightweight plastic bottles too, unlike white gas and paraffin which need heavier special fuel bottles, which partly counters the extra weight of more fuel.

Meths stoves can be used in freezing weather but they're slow for snow melting and most need refilling often as they don't hold much fuel.

The classic meths stove, which has been around for over fifty years, is the Trangia. This comes in various configurations of windscreens and pots, all with a sturdy brass burner. Trangia units are tough and functional - this is a stove that will last a lifetime -but also quite heavy and bulky.

For many years there were few alternatives to the Trangia. However the last few decades has seen a whole host of them appear, mostly in the form of  burners made from drinks cans by small cottage industries. All of these are much lighter than a Trangia but only some are as functional. Of the ones I've tried my favourite by far is the Trail Designs Caldera Cone, which comes in an array of different sizes to match different pots. This combines a burner with a windscreen/pot support like the Trangia but at a much lower weight and size. I've used the Ti-Tri version, which is made from titanium, on two long distance walks and many shorter trips including the TGO Challenge.

Solid Fuel & Wood Stoves

Blocks of solid fuel such as Esbit tablets are an alternative to meths. Tiny stands are available for solid fuel such as the Trail Designs GramCracker, which can be used inside a Caldera Cone. Solid fuel is lightweight and compact and of course can't be spilled. The flame is even less powerful than meths though and simmering is just about impossible. Even so it's a viable fuel for boiling water.

Trail Designs Ti-Tri with Inferno insert for wood burning
The big advantage of wood as a fuel is that you don't need to carry it with you. The disadvantage is that finding dry wood in wet conditions can be difficult even in woods. In Britain combining wood with another fuel is wise. Many meths or solid fuel burners can be used with wood-burning stoves and some stoves are designed to use wood. The Trail Designs Ti-Tri can be used with wood, which I did frequently on the Pacific Northwest Trail but only twice on the rather wetter and much less wooded Scottish Watershed. I used the Inferno insert with the Ti-Tri, which meant the twigs burnt to a fine ash and produced much heat. Other good wood burners I've used are the BushBuddy Ultra and the Backcountry Boiler. Meths burners can be used with both of them.

Personal Choices

Currently my first choice for long distance walks is the Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri as it's lightweight, windproof and durable (though you do need to protect the meths burner against crushing) with no moving parts to fail. It can also be used with solid fuel, meths and wood. For shorter trips in places where a stove failure wouldn't be a disaster I use a gas stove as these are so easy and convenient. I wouldn't take one on a long remote country solo trip though as they're not field maintainable and I have had failures (the weight of upright stoves is so low that a spare could easily be carried though). For winter use I like remote cartridge gas stoves with heat exchanger pots. I'd now only use a liquid fuel stove if going somewhere extremely cold or somewhere it was the only fuel available (I once led a ski tour in Greenland where we used jet fuel as that’s all we could get).