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| View across Talladh a Bheithe to Schiehallion |
Earlier in the year a proposal was put forward for a wind
farm at Talladh a Bheithe, an area of the Central Highlands lying between Loch
Ericht and Loch Rannoch. It’s not well-known as it contains no Munros though it
is overlooked by a remote Corbett (hill between 2500’ and 3000’), Beinn
Mholach. However there are many Munros surrounding Talladh a Bheithe so any
wind farm would be highly visible in many views near and far, a factor that has
prompted many outdoor and conservation organisations to object strongly to the
proposal. A group has been set up to fight the wind farm too. Called KeepRannoch Wild it has an excellent informative website with many links.
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| Beinn Mholach, looking towards a distant Ben Nevis |
As it was clear from the map how obtrusive this wind farm
would be I put in my objection as soon as I heard about it. I was aware though
that I didn’t really know what the area was like. Indeed, although I had climbed
Beinn Mholach and had looked across Talladh a Bheithe from many Munros I had no
recollection of actually going there, nor was I even aware of the name. I
decided to remedy this with an overnight visit and another ascent of Beinn
Mholach so I could view the area from above.
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| View over Talladh a Bheithe from Beinn Mholach |
A predicted weather window of 24 hours or so amongst the
long run of storms this autumn looked a good opportunity. I hoped the forecast
was correct as I set off in the evening from Dalnaspidal on the A9 road in rain
and wind and tramped along the track beside Loch Garry. Leaving the lochside as
darkness fell the track deteriorated into a boggy morass. However as my feet
grew muddier and wetter the rest of me started to dry out as the clouds cleared
and the rain faded away. There was a sharp feel to the air when I reached the
estate bothy Duinish at the base of Beinn Mholach and soon an almost-full moon
rose into the sky and a frost settled on
the ground. I lit a fire in the bothy, which made the place feel a little more
welcoming though did little to create heat, and settled down for the night.
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| Ben Alder from Beinn Mholach |
Dawn came calm and clear. Just a few high thin clouds
streaked the sky. I was soon away up the heathery, boggy slopes of Beinn
Mholach. This 841 metre hill is big and complex with several subsidiary tops
and several little rock outcrops (the name means shaggy mountain). As I climbed
the landscape all around opened up. There are no other hills of similar height
nearby so Beinn Mholach is an excellent viewpoint. To the south across Talladh
a Bheithe and Loch Rannoch I could see the distinctive cone of Schiehallion, a
mountain that would dominate the whole day, and the Glen Lyon and Ben Lawers
hills. North and east were the A9 Munros, big rounded lumps. North and west Ben
Alder was snow-capped with to the south two usually hard to see Munros, Carn
Dearg and Sgor Gaibhre, clearly visible. Further away were many more hills
including a distant very snow Ben Nevis. Beinn Mholach really does feel in the
heart of the mountains. I could also look down to Talladh a Bheithe, an area of
low hills and stream valleys to the south-west. Wind turbines here really would
stand out and completely disrupt the feel of being in a wild place. There are
no big manmade structures close to Beinn Mholach and so it should remain.
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| Ben Nevis from Beinn Mholach |
I continued along the broad ridge stretching west from Beinn
Mholach until I was directly above the proposed wind farm site. Here I
descended beside the Allt a’ Choire Odhair Bhig, passing a small ragged
plantation, into the centre of Talladh a Bheithe where I camped close to the
stream, a peaceful spot on the edge of a wide flat boggy area and below rounded
hills. The only sounds were the trickling of the stream over stones and the
occasional guttural roar of a rutting stag from high in the hills. In the
distance I could see Schiehallion. Dusk brought another hard frost and a
crispness to the air that made the mountains all round stand out as sharp
silhouettes. A wind farm here would totally destroy this peacefulness and
subtle beauty.
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| Dusk at the Talladh a Bheithe camp |
The weather window was just that and I woke to rain and wind
and low cloud hiding the mountains. A five-hour head-down, hood-up march took
me round the base of the hills and back along Loch Garry to my car. I didn’t
mind. I’d seen Talladh a Bheithe, I’d had a lovely camp and I’d climbed a fine
hill.
